TED_fiestaHP wrote: The 128 type engine came in basically 2 sizes, 1200 and 1500.
I thought it was three: 1100, 1300 and 1500
It also seems like the there were a couple 1600 versions based off the Lampredi design in the late 80's and 90's that we didn't get (twin cam)?
Yeah Buddy that rally grill makes a huge difference. I found mine on eBay and it wasn't cheap but totally worth it. The MS setup is really impressive I'd like to check that out. My 128 is up on jack stands while I rebuild the front drive train and steering components. It's got front and rear sway bars but not sure if they're stock or aftermarket.
The front sway bar acts as one of the suspension components on these cars so it needs to be there.
In reply to TED_fiestaHP:
The front bar on a 128/Yugo is also half of the control arm.
Yes some cars use a front sway bar as part of the control arm.
My race car, uses a radius rod, a rod going forward to a connection point, similar to a X1/9. So no sway bar on the front.
I race a 1980 ford fiesta, racing a front drive car is a little different.
The front sway bar will make the car feel more stable on the street, but can cause some under-steer, possibly in rain or snow conditions. Also can cause more wheel spin in spirited driving, autocross or track type driving.
I have always like the 128 fiats, almost bought a sport coupe a few years ago. If you do a little searching there are many modified 128's all over the world, of course many of those could be from years ago. Nice simple fun little cars.
When I said the engine came is two sizes, just for reference to the available different timing belts and tension rollers, two different belts and two different tension rollers (1200 and 1500 versions) . Can use a combination of the available parts to make it work, depending on what has been modified.
Little clunk...
Reminds me of the missing starter story... At grid out, hit the starter button, can hear the starter spin but it isn't making contact with the engine. So the grid workers push started it, I was thinking this might not be a good idea... Then it started making a funny noise, then the noise stopped. Never found that starter. I did happen to have a spare...
Nothing much to report from last night. It was freaking COLD in the shop last night so I didn't stick around too long.
I was playing around in TunerStudio with the laptop on the bench in offline mode with my back to the car and I kept hearing a click. I just kinda assumed it was one of my neighbors, the wind, or the the old building itself creaking from the cold. Then the lights flashed. Then the fuel pump ran off and on a few times. Then all 3 things happened at once, which was super odd because the keys were in my front pocket. This went on for a few minutes while I poked around, looking for any obvious shorts or wire's I forgot to land. I gave the steering column a good whack with my hand and the Tachometer raised up to about 4000 rpm, hung for 5 seconds, and then dropped down to zero with a distinct click.
So, naturally, I pulled off the steering column shroud and poked around. There's a hilariously awful wad of solder that brings constant 12V to the ignition switch and down to the fuse block (I believe), but no amount of fiddling with that made any impact on the Poltergeist Tachometer. I disconnected and reconnected the connectors leading to the ignition switch one by one until it stopped, which it eventually did. After the most cursory internet search ever, I found many examples of X1/9 ignitions switches failing in exciting ways, and since 128's share the same switch, I see no reason to believe it is anything but the switch. Luckily, it appears X1/9 ignition switches are rebuildable, so it's on the bench waiting for me tonight. I'll dig up some electronic parts cleaner and some dielectric grease and have a go at it tonight. Hopefully it works out, because dem E36 M3s ain't cheap.
Oh, I also finally registered TunerStudio, so I started a "new" tune and had the TunerStudio crap out a new AFR map and VE map. I'm excited to see what that does for drivability and power. The AFR table is notably leaner than the old table, so I expect to have to fatten it up in places. Especially in the idle portion of that map. I couldn't get the car to idle worth a E36 M3 at anything above about 13.8:1 before, and it was pretty hilarious at 14.7:1 like the new map suggests. At any rate, I still have the "old" tune, so I can always revert back to that.
So, TL;DR plan for tonight is rebuild and reinstall ignition switch -> load new tune -> futz with AFR table -> Autotune the VE Table -> one wheel peels in the parking lot. 
Inquiring minds and all that: just how does this thing drive compared to "modern cars"? Keep in mind that my definition of modern cars peaks somewhere around the mid 80's to mid 90's. I expect it to be a little noisy and rough, but does the power feel adequate for the chassis? 0-60 in like 11 or 12 seconds?
Mezzanine wrote: Inquiring minds and all that: just how does this thing drive compared to "modern cars"? Keep in mind that my definition of modern cars peaks somewhere around the mid 80's to mid 90's. I expect it to be a little noisy and rough, but does the power feel adequate for the chassis? 0-60 in like 11 or 12 seconds?
You have the same definition of "Modern" as me.
The car rides surprisingly nice, probably because of the Bilstein Sports excessive dampening for the light weight nature of the car. The few friends that have been around the block in the car have been pleasantly surprised, myself included. I think it could use a little less spring up front, and certainly more out back (I still haven't put the Wagon rear spring pack on). It rides better than any Rabbit or Scirocco I have ever owned, bar none, and everyone always comments on how well the current Scirocco rides... well, rode. It's broken now.
Power wise kinda remains to be seen. I am willing to go out on a limb and say that 0-60 will be in the 10 second range. I haven't had the throttle opened much further than half-way at this point between the questionable tune and the clunk on acceleration, even though every time I drive it all I want to do it mash the throttle and bang gears. It really feels like you're hauling the mail, though. I'm sure the small-port Yugo head is going to fall off pretty hard up high, but as long as it makes a load of torque down low it's a trade off I'm willing to make. Probably better suited to the wife-mobile anyways. It will absolutely run and hide from the tired 1300 and 4 speed; not even in the same category. The slightly closer gear ratios aren't going to hurt any, either. While not really a worthwhile performance metric, I would say it feels like a MK1 VW with an ABA swap; surprisingly grunty, but not a real ball of fire.
Once it is dialed in a bit better and I know it's not going to self-destruct or try to kill me, I will make a short video with some WOT pulls and document some 0-60 times. There's a good on-ramp for, uhhh, this kind of testing not far from my house. Might even borrow the DSLR for that. 
Garage 808 down in Eugene hosts a Dyno day every spring and I have every intention of taking the car this year. Probably no special prizes for lowest number of the day, though.
Burrito wrote: Once it is dialed in a bit better and I know it's not going to self-destruct or try to kill me, I will make a short video with some WOT pulls and document some 0-60 times. There's a good on-ramp for, uhhh, this kind of testing not far from my house. Might even borrow the DSLR for that.
I've taken low number of the day a few times - be proud. :D
My cylinder head guy always laughed over the ports on the 1300 engine. He claims it is impossible to over-rev it given how badly it flows air at the top end.
I know cash is tight right now - but when you get a few bills freed up, think hard about a couple hours on the dyno to get the torque dialed in...but only if you're controlling spark with your MS.
I bought an ignition switch for my x1/9 from Thailand. It came and worked fine. Mine was bad and the key didn't come with the car so I was willing to drop the $65 or so on part and shipping.
Ignition switch; try using some relays to reduce the amount of current going thru the switch.
A typical mode for fiat x 1/9 is adding a relay for the starter.
Also any electric fuel pump should also have a relay, a higher pressure injection pump will be a lot of load for the ignition switch.
Hey Burrito - I'm sure you watch XWeb as much as I do, but in case you haven't been lately, there is a guy selling a bunch of NOS Yugo parts. I thought of you when I saw the posting. Xweb Classifieds
The Burrito isn't due back from Thailand for another week or so.
Yep, the Burritos are on holiday right now. We are getting ready to leave Phuket for a few days on Ko Lanta.
The real standout of the trip for us has been Chiang Mai, which we both agreed is place worth living. Bangkok is too big and too dirty for our likings, and I would suggest spending time somewhere else if you ever find yourself in Thailand.
I've seen a lot of cool cars that we never got stateside and have been snagging pictures whenever possible.
I enjoyed the write up in the magazine about the project. Hopefully it'll motivate you to get back to it
All the best
Hope your trip is going well, it sounds really exciting.
ssswitch wrote: Hope your trip is going well, it sounds really exciting.
Oh, yeah... no, I've been back in the states for several weeks now. I have just been at my day job almost every day since returning. Most evenings are spent working on the house we closed on in January, so there's not a whole lot of time for playing with Fiats right now.
I did actually sneak away to play with the Scirocco a bit today, but that's a different thread.
I have a few things planned for this project in the next month or two, but it will be pretty quiet for a while still. I guess since I'm already here I might as well give a little update, though:
The car is running berkeleying fantastic and hasn't missed a beat since I let tunerstudio do it's thing. That program is witchcraft. I downloaded a little app for my phone that does some fun stuff with GPS, including 0-60 times. While I'm sure it's not the most accurate thing in the world, the app says it takes the plucky little 128 10.8 seconds to achieve such a feat in the wet. If the pavement ever dries out I will certainly retest with a more aggressive launch. I have a running list of small things to fix, but it's reliable enough to carry me the 12 miles to work once or twice a week as it sits.
There's a lot of fun stuff coming, and this thread will go back to it's former, more frequent update schedule, there's just some home renovations and 60-something hour work weeks between here and there.
It's a beautiful day here in SW Washington so I thought I would take the little 128 for a drive. But the damn thing wouldn't start.
Did some basic troubleshooting; made sure all the connections were still done up on the harness, no glaringly obviously vacuum leaks, fuel pump running, etc. The damn thing would just pop constantly but never catch and run.
So, uhh, I dumped $6 worth of fuel into the tank and she fired right away.
Guess I should probably order that fuel level sender or fix the odometer at some point...
Those are the worst. At least you didn't start throwing parts at it first.
When I was in high school, I had a '67 Plymouth Belvedere II hardtop with a V8, a bad fuel sender and a small hole in the gas tank. Fortunately, the odometer worked. Every hundred miles, I'd put in $5 worth of gas (keeping the fuel level below the leak), a quart of oil and a quart of transmission fluid. I actually went from Connecticut to Vermont like that for a ski trip. I even drove along some railroad tracks for a few miles. We didn't lose the brakes until we were almost home.
Is it wrong to be hoping for an update?
jimbob_racing wrote: Is it wrong to be hoping for an update?
Maybe put some bait out will help?
I got all excited when this popped up....
C'mon, Burrito. Bring it home. We need closure!
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