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jakeb
jakeb HalfDork
10/29/13 5:14 p.m.

It might be just a slip of one number but this is an S85....over the S65. Yes it will be a bit nose heavy compared to the stock S14 that was in it. We are going to add a bit of ballast in the form of a half cage and small stereo to help balance it out. Yes it will add some weight but we are talking about 505hp stock from a 5L 40 valve V10....

It will be pushed back as far as possible...for both balance and space at the radiator.

jakeb
jakeb HalfDork
11/3/13 7:14 p.m.

Parts are showing up for the Blunttech S85 Build.

Fortune Auto Coilovers are here.

The goal for this car is to have a fairly quiet exhaust system. So we are looking to the OEM world. This is a take off exhaust from a Dodge Viper. Before the resonators there will be a cross over pipe....oh yeah and electric cutouts.

Lof8
Lof8 GRM+ Memberand Reader
11/3/13 7:32 p.m.

Man, you do some really cool projects. I'm in to watch the progress. Any consideration to doing car builds full-time?

jakeb
jakeb HalfDork
11/3/13 7:35 p.m.

I do them part time right now....day job until noon every day.

NOHOME
NOHOME Dork
11/4/13 8:33 a.m.
Lof8 wrote: Man, you do some really cool projects. I'm in to watch the progress. Any consideration to doing car builds full-time?

I bet that would take all the fun out of it.

yamaha
yamaha PowerDork
11/4/13 12:48 p.m.

In reply to jakeb:

It should be shorter than a M20 I6 in an e30, shouldn't it?

jakeb
jakeb HalfDork
11/4/13 7:57 p.m.
yamaha wrote: In reply to jakeb: It should be shorter than a M20 I6 in an e30, shouldn't it?

Yeah maybe slightly shorter but it is pretty wide

NOHOME wrote: I bet that would take all the fun out of it.

naaa still fun

cdowd
cdowd Reader
11/6/13 11:35 a.m.

That is going to be a monster.

jakeb
jakeb HalfDork
1/2/14 8:06 p.m.

Long time no update but moving ahead now. Steve from Blunttech flew in for a couple days to rip it all apart. On to some pictures....

On the new lift...pulling brake booster and hood.

Pulled front subframe and struts

Deep in thought

Rear Subframe down...which was a bitch.

The 135 brakes fit inside the 17" throwing stars. The 135 rotors are a bit to deep tho. Going to have to look for some different rotors.

Just random under body pictures.

Pulling more out of the engine bay

The standard in engine bay photo

asleep until tomorrow...

Cody_D
Cody_D New Reader
1/2/14 10:16 p.m.

This is so cool, can't wait to see more updates.

jakeb
jakeb HalfDork
1/3/14 8:29 p.m.

We are making the core support removable to make getting the engine in an out a lot easier.

We got an e46 M3 rotor to try the 145 brakes.

The engine is sitting on a pallet on wheels. So we tried rolling it in. Will need to lift it in with an engine puller but we wanted to try anyway.

As far as we can get it for now without pulling it off the pallet.

Cleaned up some of the surface rust on the bottom and put some POR on it.

Cleaning up the engine bay to make it a little nicer to work in.

End of the day...Steve is heading back home tomorrow.

DoctorBlade
DoctorBlade UltraDork
1/3/14 8:56 p.m.

How will it sound? I'm not a fan of v10s, mind you.

irish44j
irish44j PowerDork
1/3/14 11:04 p.m.

The answer is mid-engine V10 e30m3

kevlarcorolla
kevlarcorolla HalfDork
1/4/14 2:46 p.m.
DoctorBlade wrote: How will it sound? I'm not a fan of v10s, mind you.

Probably a lot like this,

http://youtu.be/9l9Q8kCgRSo

jakeb
jakeb HalfDork
1/13/14 7:54 p.m.

We have been doing lots of research looking for off the shelf rotors that will work with the 135 6 piston calipers on the E30 M3. The biggest issue with the M3 is there is VERY little clearance between the rotor and the tie rod. When you go with a really big rotor. The stock M3 rotor is very shallow, right around 40mm.

So after digging through lots and lots of different rotor specs for all different cars we think we have found something that will work. This rotor is 330mm by 28mm and NOT off a BMW. Once we know everything will work we will say what it is off of. We don't want misinformation out there. It is only 39mm deep so there is around 7mm of clearance at the tie rod.

Now this rotor will need some machining but it is close. The center bore will have to be opened up a little bit and the wheel studs will need to be ob-longed inward.

Ultra flat rotor.

Bolt holes are close...

Ground down the rub of the m3 bearing (will be replaced anyway) to be able to set the rotor flat against the hub.

Tie rod clearance

Need to make a bracket...

Mocking up in a 17" wheel

Now this wheel will not clear the caliper. If you look there is some wood stacked to get it to clear. So we will need a different wheel setup. There is around 22mm of "spacer" right now.

Nashco
Nashco UberDork
1/13/14 8:26 p.m.

What are you using to search rotors? I've used a few online catalog/search tools in the past (Brembo, DBA, etc.) but it's been a couple of years since I had to do a brake mashup so perhaps there are better tools.

Thanks for the update. Removing the core support is a good idea, that will save you a lot of time and hassle in the future.

Bryce

z31maniac
z31maniac UltimaDork
1/13/14 9:39 p.m.
kevlarcorolla wrote:
DoctorBlade wrote: How will it sound? I'm not a fan of v10s, mind you.
Probably a lot like this, http://youtu.be/9l9Q8kCgRSo

Annnnnnnnnnnnnnd my pants are tight.

dyintorace
dyintorace GRM+ Memberand UberDork
1/14/14 7:56 a.m.
z31maniac wrote:
kevlarcorolla wrote:
DoctorBlade wrote: How will it sound? I'm not a fan of v10s, mind you.
Probably a lot like this, http://youtu.be/9l9Q8kCgRSo
Annnnnnnnnnnnnnd my pants are tight.

Agreed. I love the sound of that motor!!

Paulwarrior
Paulwarrior None
1/22/14 3:02 p.m.

Hi best of luck with the project. I'm building one myself also. I'm using the specialist components ecu and loom.

Although mine is a racecar so no traction control or any of that rubbish!!

I've cut the bulkhead in mine to allow the engine much further back. If I can help in anyway feel free to get in touch!

calteg
calteg Reader
1/22/14 3:18 p.m.

My mind, it is boggled

jakeb
jakeb HalfDork
1/29/14 8:36 p.m.

Started fitting the s85 into the e30.

It is sitting a little high in these pictures.

This is a WIDE engine.

Looks like we will be able to keep AC. This is a street car afterall and will be driven.

The trans is tight in the tunnel but it fits so far without any adjustments. It might need a little opening up in a couple spots just to give good clearance but so far so good.

Might do something different with the heater hose connection to be able to push it back a little further and give a little more room here.

But it is pretty close to the firewall already.

The cat is built into the header and was hitting the bottom of the car. The plan was to cut them off anyway so off they go now.

These headers are equal length.

Inside the collector.

They dump in a nice location.

The main issue now is building a new subframe and/or modifing the oil pan to get everything to work.

You can also see the catless header here.

Steering shaft actually has a fairly direct shot. Might go to a smaller ujoint/shaft. Also something without the rubber flex disc.

bmwbav
bmwbav New Reader
1/30/14 2:01 p.m.

In reply to jakeb: Looks great! That is a tight fit. I think the only option is to make a custom oil pan, the steering rack needs to be where it needs to be.

There is at least one of these swaps out there, you can see the oil pan on this one.

http://www.dpccars.com/gallery/index.php/BMW-E30-M3-with-BMW-M5-V10-engine-swap/BMW-E30-M3-with-BMW-M5-V10-engine-swap-13

bmwbav
bmwbav New Reader
1/30/14 2:21 p.m.

In reply to bmwbav:

It looks like these folks make a dry sump system for the V10, may be the "easy button"?

http://wp1016621.server-he.de/fotost/f01833/f01833.htm

jakeb
jakeb HalfDork
2/6/14 4:00 p.m.

So the subframe and oil pan want to live in the same spot. So what do we do....cut the oil pan? Move the subframe? Or a little of both? The plan is to go with modified subframe and cut oil pan.

First step is to build a jig to hold the subframe so once it's cut up it will still be in the same spot. Made with 2.5" angle (might be a little over kill but I don't want anything to move)

Locating the steering rack. The rack MIGHT get moved forward slightly to allow for less cutting of the oil pan. That is why there are two locations. One about 3/4" forward.

Just random jig pics

Time to cut the subframe apart.

Back in the jig...

Next step is to bolt the subframe to the car and see where things start lining up. Also need to find some fittings for the steering rack as I want to move some of the lines to the front to give more room.

jakeb
jakeb HalfDork
2/14/14 5:30 a.m.

So to limit the amount of oil pan that has to be cut we are going to mount the steering rack as tight as possible. We are using a 2.7 turn Z3 rack and moved the lines to the top/front of the rack rather than the front. As seen here.

To mount the rack tight as possible the subframe is also the mounting spot. This started as 2" - 0.25 wall box and was cut down into a C. A few spots had to be notched out to make it all fit around the rack. This was cut witha plasma and still needs to be cleaned up a little.

Bolted to the jig

Starting to connect the dots

Trimmed down and more pieces tacked in.

Out of the jig

In the car

About how much will need to be trimmed from the pan.

Now this subframe is FAR from done. It will get a lot more reinforcements but we are still at the, "lets make it all fit" stage.

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