1997 Bravada, Mileage unknown
Known issues:
Low on power.
Misses under load
Spongy breaks (fluid is nearly black)
A couple small leaks.
Moldy interior full of junk.
Key randomly sticks in ignition.
Sometimes gets stuck in park.
1997 Bravada, Mileage unknown
Known issues:
Low on power.
Misses under load
Spongy breaks (fluid is nearly black)
A couple small leaks.
Moldy interior full of junk.
Key randomly sticks in ignition.
Sometimes gets stuck in park.
The first thing I did was put the alternator and battery in. Then, I spent two or three days figuring out that multiple wires needed to be hooked to the back of the alternator, and without them, the computer didn't get any power.
After installing the Alternator correctly.... i drove it about 5 feet only to discover the brakes were barely functional, so, I didn't dare move it further and started cleaning it out about 5 feet from the trees it had been parked under, at least now I was in sunlight and could see.
After adding some break fluid, I attempted to move it up to the driveway and put a jack under it to check the calipers and look for leaks, only to find that it had a crank-no-start issue.
I went and purchased a few diagnostic tools and some starting fluid. My guess was the fuel pump, as it wouldn't start on the starting fluid. It had received new cap, rotors, plugs, and coils within the last 3 to 5 years in an attempt to solve the low power/miss issue.
I first tested that the computer was turned on by finding power at the TPS, then verified 60 PSI of fuel pressure.
I needed to wait for my son to wake up (we are third shifters) so I started cleaning it out. After removing about half the junk on the passenger floor, I found the coil that was supposed to be changed years ago.
After "installing" the new coil (its just sitting loose on the valve cover) it fired right up and I took it for a quick ride).
it runs, drives, and stops, but it is as slow as anything I've ever driven in my life, and the blinkers don't work...
I cleaned out some more junk but had to quit because it was getting dark and I needed to head to work.
So far I am keeping my promise to spend at least an hour a day on it rain or shine. but I am thinking its time to get a tarp garage as the other day in the rain sucked.
In reply to Will :
It's not missing, I know right where it is.
Rear doors and tailgate were sold prior to my taking possession.
Will said:I like how "missing door" wasn't listed as a known issue.
It's a Jee.....Blaz....Oldsmobile thing?
Wait, I'm in Kalamazoo, MI. (Climax technically)
Hit me in my eMail. Maybe we could co-op some help and motivation for each other.
I may have some errant S10 parts left that I didn't give to Duster when I made room.
well it's good to know it's going to be a track rig. Getting rid of that interior would be on my first too do list then make it run.
In reply to brad131a4 (Forum Supporter) :
We don't need no stinking interiors... Stinking literally 😆
It's all running and driving now, I just need to confirm somehow that it's the spider injectors that are bad and flush the brake fluid and it's road ready 😆😂😆
I have alternate fuel injection plans, so I hope it's the injectors.
In reply to QuasiMofo (John Brown) :
My account is too new to contact people through the forum.
But it would be awesome to have a grassroots type of friend localy
ThePoors said:In reply to QuasiMofo (John Brown) :
My account is too new to contact people through the forum.
But it would be awesome to have a grassroots type of friend localy
quasimofo (a) gmail.com
( 269 ) 203 - 6403
Some... Progress?
No one makes a brush guard for this, so I bought something close from marketplace and added some plow lights.
It looks sillier than I thought it would.
The brakes are cursed, went to pull it around to flush the lines and we are back to crank-no start.
So, it's not the battery, the alternator, the coil, the ignition (I don't think) it has to be a loose ground somewhere.
Although, I did get caught in a heavy downpour with the hood off the other day, so maybe something got wet that shouldn't have.
Sorry about the pics, I do most of my work at night by the light of a head band lamp .
For CNS on those I will ALWAYS recommend the following:
Replace the cap and rotor.
Replace the wire set. Add lengths of split loom to separate every wire, if you can double the coil wire do it.
I could build a building from all the carbon tracking I've seen come off those wires.
Wonder what fuel pressure is like when you have the crank / no start condition going on. Lot of wiring in the fuel system plus the pump, relay, etc.
I picked up a parts vehicle, a 98 s10 with a bad frame, no title, and some goodies.
I had previously verified proper fuel pressure, so I broke out the parts cannon.
I can't Drag the carcass of the parts truck home until I get the Bravada running... but I did bring home a trunkload of parts, so I swapped them until it started. It was either the "new" coil that I had found in the bravada or the ICM, I swapped them both at once from the parts truck, and it now runs like a top (at least in the driveway).
The brake issue was a pinhole in the metal line from the front to the back, which was a lot of fun. I didn't want to do it because the one time I had changed a brake line like that ended up being a 3-day nightmare, but the copper lines I got this time around made it not quite easy, but definitely not a nightmare, just required a bit of patience.
I went to Rhoades Race Cars in Indianna today, where I picked up about 115 feet of 1 3/4 and 1 5/8 DOM tubing for $200, I had ordered 10 sticks of each (4 to 6 feet each) but a couple sticks were slightly under 4 so they threw in an 11th piece of each and they have promised to hold the next couple of long pieces for me and I'm supposed to go back in two weeks to pick them up. Ended up paying just under $2 a foot and should be able to make a respectable cage for about $300 or less by purchasing a pre-bent main roll bar.
Now I have to design a cage, finish wiring the lights get the Bravada legal and drive it around to find the rest of the problems that Im certain are there... then probably replace some bushings and such before I even contemplate doing the cage or doing more than drooling over the ebay turbo kit sitting in my spare bedroom!
I had been worried about running out of budget because there was so little to recoup off the BravaDuh but with some luck I am going to be ok, as long as I can manage not to scream at the rediculose FB market place buyers.
Ive got some roll cage build studying to do!
Are you building this for the $2k Challenge or something else? Mention of budget and the cost-effective methods being employed makes me think Challenge...
In reply to pres589 (djronnebaum) :
Well, I figure following the challenge guidelines will keep me from going crazy and spending tons of money. I'd like to participate in the challenge next year, whether I make the budget or not.
But this won't be competitive; it'll be fun. Whether it's a two-track or race track, I should be good to go!
Welcome aboard. I'm not in kalamazoo but I do live near Cleveland and have a cabin north of Grand Rapids so I come through sometimes. Usually to visit mofo. Lately with the work on 94 I've been going up 23 and across 10 instead though. I've met 2 forum people separately from Kalamazoo and from completely different forums, ended up they lived 2 doors down from each other. If you tell me you live on palmer off portage my head will explode.
i have some of this era S chassis stuff kicking around if you end up needing anything. Have a transfer case from a gmt360 bravada if it is of any use
In reply to Patrick :
Actually. I used to deliver their mail on Palmer just off portage LOL, Im a bit north of there.
I am in need of shocks and bushings ect.
This is the last year of the BW4472 AWD transfer case, I think the only better one is the trailblazer SS transfer case.
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