GM classic cream
GM classic cream
Regal turquoise
Mosport green
Also primer is pretty easy, but base and clear need a question answered. I'll have to paint the hood and fenders separately I think. Is that going to work or should I mount them for one coat as a whole? I'll need to clear the inner part of the fenders and hood as well, right?
I'm going to spray my truck as a complete assembly. I will jamb everything in advance, but do the exterior spray all in one. Not a "show quality" approach, but good enough for the zero beautification maintenance my vehicles get.
In reply to tuna55 :
I know it is late in the game, but are you sure you want to do base-clear? Was it originally done in base clear? Single stage is cheaper and easier to apply and a world of easier to touch up when life happens as it will with a flock of tunae learning to drive the truck in the years ahead.
But to answer your question. Be as meticulous as you want to be when painting the truck in pieces or as one assembled truck. The doors will probably be off to do the door jambs anyway, so might as well paint the hidden bits of the doors off the truck. You can then put them on the truck to do the final paint of the outer surface. Be aware that you should be doing this in a 24 hour period as that tends to be the time when the paint is "open" to receiving another layer of paint.
When jambing a car in single stage, life is easy since no big deal to blend the edge of the jambed paint with the new layer outside, Bit harder to do with base clear since you have to blend the new base layer to the clear that went on when you jambed the truck; that is the reason I would do the whole car with the panels off in one long day. Basecoat the whole truck with the panels apart and then clear the whole truck with the panels apart.
Look up masking with a "soft line". It is a method of using masking tape to blend in where you stop and start painting during jambing and painting a car. There is a special tape for this, but most just fold over masking tape.
I have a feeling that by the time you are done spraying the primer and the highbuild and the sealer, you will have a pretty clear idea of how you want to proceed with the color.
I hope so. I know this is a bit unusual since I have the interior of the truck to paint as well. I must admit I am pretty confused right now. I had thought BC/CC was the way to go. I wish I could see side by side comparisons. I've heard of folks doing SS on the interior and BC/CC on the exterior as well. I am not sure I have the time and manpower to paint everything in pieces in one day. There are a lot of parts to move and not much room to move them.
I did the el camino insingle stage interior, base ckear exterior.
Base clear is harder to touch up, but easier to maintain on a daily. It also has a different reflection quality that i don't know how to explain. Softer maybe? Not as deep? Dont know how to say it.
Personally, id shoot base clear exterior and jambs one panel at a time, and interior in single stage in one go.
When i did the neon, we jambs and panels at the same time by hanging parts from an aframe.
Dusterbd13-michael said:I did the el camino insingle stage interior, base ckear exterior.
Base clear is harder to touch up, but easier to maintain on a daily. It also has a different reflection quality that i don't know how to explain. Softer maybe? Not as deep? Dont know how to say it.
Personally, id shoot base clear exterior and jambs one panel at a time, and interior in single stage in one go.
When i did the neon, we jambs and panels at the same time by hanging parts from an aframe.
Softer definitely sounds like what I want. I am thinking the interior and jambs first, then the panels and cab in BC/CC
As far as updates, I sanded a bunch more last night. I am pretty happy with how little filler remains. I have a few more nights to go on the cab before I move back to the hood.
Also isn't SS/CC an option?
I don't intend to baby this thing when it's done, it will be in the sun and I hate waxing. I'm worried about the SS durability in the long term.
I want it to look soft and deep.
I'm going to do single stage for the simplicity, as well as the ease of touch ups. Plus, when a clearcoat fails or wears through, the whole thing looks awful. When the single stage fails or wears through, it's called patina :)
Tangier aqua from Desoto:
Chrysler Saturn Blue
Tuna, I dont mean to confuse you and maybe should not have posted what I did this late in the game.
The reality is that with a modicum of due diligence, the BC is going to be fantastic and you will be happy. Except for the 10 or so things that are not perfect and only you are going to notice.
Plan your jamb masking so that any ridge that might occur due to the overlap from painting the exterior is not visible when the door is closed. ( does that make sense?)
------------------------------------ This represents your flat surface with no paint
------------------=================== The double line is the new level created by the BC on the "jamb" . The effect is the same as if you masked off a square in the middle of the panel and painted with a perfectly matching paint to the rest of the panel. When you removed the tape, you would see the outline of your square because it is higher than the rest of the surface.
As you can see, when you go back to paint the exterior, you are going to get a "Bump" where the jamb is already coated and the new stuff needs to climb over the already coated surface. Just plan it so that with the doors closed you don't see this line.
You already painted one car and it came out fine, so relax and have fun with this one. You got it.
NOHOME said:Tuna, I dont mean to confuse you and maybe should not have posted what I did this late in the game.
The reality is that with a modicum of due diligence, the BC is going to be fantastic and you will be happy. Except for the 10 or so things that are not perfect and only you are going to notice.
Plan your jamb masking so that any ridge that might occur due to the overlap from painting the exterior is not visible when the door is closed. ( does that make sense?)
------------------------------------ This represents your flat surface with no paint
------------------=================== The double line is the new level created by the BC on the "jamb" . The effect is the same as if you masked off a square in the middle of the panel and painted with a perfectly matching paint to the rest of the panel. When you removed the tape, you would see the outline of your square because it is higher than the rest of the surface.
As you can see, when you go back to paint the exterior, you are going to get a "Bump" where the jamb is already coated and the new stuff needs to climb over the already coated surface. Just plan it so that with the doors closed you don't see this line.
You already painted one car and it came out fine, so relax and have fun with this one. You got it.
Thanks!
Wow though, the Catywampus paint was "How quickly and cheaply can I make this thing not look like sick chalk"
I totally get the thickness you mention, and with the rather industrial door opening GM made, it will be easy. I suspect staying BC/CC will also make it easier to do the white top/color bottom line with no chipping. I had a striped car that we did as teenagers with SS (I did not spray it) and it was a surprisingly tall and fragile edge between the two colors.
I stayed up too late sanding. I was getting carried away because it was going so well. I hate sanding, generally, so that's bigger than it sounds. I am simultaneously very happy with how little filler remains (as I have always been worried about welded areas) and very sad at how much filler I am mixing up just to blow it out the door a day later. I am still working on the door and windshield areas. The roof looks amazing, it's exactly what I wanted.
I dreaded the smoothing job on the Molvo. Then I found it relaxing once I experienced a bit of progress, then it became obsessive.
NOHOME said:I dreaded the smoothing job on the Molvo. Then I found it relaxing once I experienced a bit of progress, then it became obsessive.
Indeed. I did zero prep work of this sort on Catywampus. I find myself wishing I could put it in epoxy so I was working with the last line of filler and getting everything absolutely perfect.
We do like pictures.
Pete
NOHOME said:We do like pictures.
Pete
Someday. "in process" sanding pictures are about as boring as can be. Plus I'm all dusty. If you're ever jonesing to see me in my skivvies, just peer in the window after I finish a sanding session.
You are a much more methodical and patient man than me sir. I have no doubt your paint and body on your truck will come out far better then anything I have done. I'm excited to see your progress.
Dusterbd13-michael said:You are a much more methodical and patient man than me sir. I have no doubt your paint and body on your truck will come out far better then anything I have done. I'm excited to see your progress.
Yeah but you're nicer, easier to talk to, and far better looking!
Regarding the SPI "perfect paint job" instructions.
Why does he measure things with shot glasses!!??
I don't even own a shot glass. If I did, it would not be in the garage, and if I did and it were, I wouldn't think "Hey before I knock a few back later, lemme quick use it to measure this toxic chemical".
Pete, do these count?
The roof and doors are essentially done and ready for primer. The hood is next. She's amazing.
tuna55 said:The hood is next. She's amazing.
You have no idea how envious I truly am here.
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