yupididit said:In reply to frenchyd :
I have an XJR with a Jag v8. No thanks. The other high powered jag v8's are supercharged or excessively pricy to which you can get an equally powered LS for less lol
F-type R is a 60k car, small fraction my ass. I'll buy one one-day though.
I'm swapping a Chevy engine in. No need to try and convince me otherwise.
Put a big block Chevy in it just for the meltdown.
Robbie (Forum Supporter) said:This thread is bad bad bad for me. Now I want an XJS challenge car. Frenchy, perhaps we should team up.
Regardless, I 'thought' that the jag rear was a Dana 44 and therefore the ring and pinion sets in basically any gear you want are relatively easy to source. The carrier and the IRS is certainly jag specific (not stick axle), but the RnP sets swap back and forth, no?
Also, now I'm scheming posi swaps for my 87 sedan...
I honestly don't know the XJ6 rear axle ratio's. I do know some were shipped with positraction originally. To answer your question, no they aren't all Dana44's. Some are Salisbury but the ratios are the same. Many parts interchange. But not all. Locally one guy converted Dana Ring and pinion to Salisbury or visa Versa. So they are very similar and the center sections interchange.
Originally they had a tag on it with the ring and pinion number of teeth which translates to ratio.
The first years ( XJS) Had a 3:11 ratio or a 3.77 if it was one of the 365 manual transmission cars. Then they went to 3:07 and with the HE 1981 2:88. As of 1991 they went to a 3:54-1
Now with regard the challenge. Since I'll be doing it up here in Minnesota rather than drive down to Florida. Wouldn't it be closer here than there? You're welcome to give it a run. In fact you're welcome to join me at Road America if you'd like to do some wheel to wheel.
I caution you after I challenge spec race it I'm getting it to wheel to wheel spec . That means the automatic is going in the dumpster and I'm putting in my Seinz 5 speed in. It's a dog ring transmission . The only time you use the clutch is to get it rolling. All shifting from then on is done without the clutch both up and downshifts.
It's scary if you haven't done it before but it's all done with the throttle.
The cool thing about it is the gears come out of the gearbox extremely fast making the gearbox adaptable to different ratios. I still have a few spare sets I used to be able to change everything, all 5 gears plus reverse in about an hour, right in the pits.
In wheel to wheel racing the advantage of being "on the cam" out of a corner can frequently allow the driver to pass faster cars.
In reply to frenchyd :
Seinz 5 speed ...
They sound really cool! As I've always done a lot of shifting without a clutch, between non synchro transmissions in old school stuff, to trucks and bikes, I really like the sounds of that.
A short google search did not find anything on Seinz 5 speed, is that a brand name, or shortened nick name? Any more info is appreciated. Prolly out of my price range, but I am into oddball stuff !
In reply to frenchyd :
Is this 4 speed similar to what you have?I also assume yours is one you used back when you were racing? That would be awesome after the challenge build. Although not in a challenge budget, that is affordable to someone serious. I also saw a brand new 6 speed dog ring, but at $18K, a bit steep for the average joe.
03Panther said:In reply to frenchyd :
Seinz 5 speed ...
They sound really cool! As I've always done a lot of shifting without a clutch, between non synchro transmissions in old school stuff, to trucks and bikes, I really like the sounds of that.
A short google search did not find anything on Seinz 5 speed, is that a brand name, or shortened nick name? Any more info is appreciated. Prolly out of my price range, but I am into oddball stuff !
My Bad, they are Saenz. They are assembled in Florida but I think the gears etc are made in South America. Yeh, they are mega expensive. What's worse I have a Tilton 7& 1/4 triple disk clutch, aluminum flywheel and bell housing.
Mines an older one. 5 speed not 6 like modern but they work the same. I love the snick as I slam them into the next gear. The faster you shift the better the transmission is.
I bought it back in the 1980's for a owner with a Ferrari budget when we were having trouble having with new M22 rock crusher Muncie's lasting through a weekend. I raced it a year &1/2 and the gears looked new. He'd go out with this and try to shift using the clutch and after the session I'd pull all the gears out, throw them away and put new gears in for his next session.
I raced it for a year and a half after I finished it and won every event. Finally I got tired of driving his car and brought my old Black Jack along to the track. Forcing him to drive.
In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :
There still is a Yellow Pre HE over In Wisconsin for sale. The cool thing it's a British spec car that started. But wouldn't keep running. ( probably something trivial. But if you want to race it you'll need to put a Megasquirt in anyway for the turbo chargers.
British specs mean it's a Right hand drive ( advantage on most tracks) and it's a lot lighter than American cars. (Close to 900 pounds) It's a 1978 so it has the Turbo 400 transmission but it's the early Flathead so the heads flow best. Best of all, instead of 7.8 -1 compression American cars have, its 9-1 compression. Which means it starts out with 37 more horsepower. With a pair of Turbo's and reground cams. You'll be close to the 600 horsepower
The Yellow paint looks good in pictures but I've been told the floors are rusted through. Probably a days worth of grinding and welding to patch. Up on my rotisserie.
The owner is a typical younger guy who bought at too high a price and now he wants out. Probably won't get it down to actual market price. But you should get it under challenge budget.
If you want I'll start looking again. Don't hesitate to pick up a non runner. Most in challenge budget will be there.
In reply to frenchyd :
So frenchyd, you aren't bringing the jaaaag to the challenge? We want to see the frenchyd V12 vs stampie bbc. Someone start a gofundme page or maybe GRM has a grant.
In reply to mdshaw :
Money is the prime problem. But also I'm still working nearly 40 hours a week as a school bus driver. Kids are in school when the challenge is on.
The income from that allows me to race and do other expensive things. I'm too ambitious to just sit in a rocking chair waiting for my long dirt nap.
Maybe Yupididit will have his ready? Plus Robbie is talking. Maybe we can figure something out?
Finally, I really have very little interest in drag racing and Autocross. The thing that has always excited me is wheel to wheel where maybe a faster car can be beaten by a more experienced driver. Real Man-no on Man-no stuff.
Nah this won't be a challenge build. I wouldn't make it this year. October is unusually busy for me every year vs the rest of the year.
In reply to yupididit :
I was wondering how you'd keep it in budget with all you've got planned. Let me know if you need any help or questions.
In reply to pres589 (djronnebaum) :
The original Jag red paint is single stage, no top coat. Even some of the metallics were still single stage when this car was new. I think what you see as worn through top coat is really spray can spot repair.
Now here's a XJS body kit.
Welp worked on the car a bit today.
Good news: Fixed the shift linkage. Need to install the transmission cooler and find a radiator. Once that's done it shall be ready for a test drive.
Bad news: Too rusty for what I plan to do with it. So I'm taking the body kit and looking for a cleaner shell. This car shall remain a v12 and hopefully fall into hands of a GRM'er once I get it going.
9.3 liters and 20 cylinders worth of Jaguar 
In reply to Stampie (FS) :
I think it would be illegal to own that WITHOUT a BBC!
yupididit said:Bad news: Too rusty for what I plan to do with it. So I'm taking the body kit and looking for a cleaner shell. This car shall remain a v12 and hopefully fall into hands of a GRM'er once I get it going.
There's a guy on here says you might be able to get a small bucket of dirt for it!
Let me know when you are done with it, I'd like to see how much trouble I can get into with it!
In reply to TurnerX19 :
That is what I was trying to explain. I've got the same thing going with my paint. Sitting in the Southern California sun baking and it's given a clear coat over because that's all that most younger painters know.
yupididit said:Welp worked on the car a bit today.
Good news: Fixed the shift linkage. Need to install the transmission cooler and find a radiator. Once that's done it shall be ready for a test drive.
Bad news: Too rusty for what I plan to do with it. So I'm taking the body kit and looking for a cleaner shell. This car shall remain a v12 and hopefully fall into hands of a GRM'er once
Use a Jaguar radiator. Massive temptation to buy a cheap Chevy aluminum radiator and put it in. Yes it wil fit and the outlets are the right size and location. ( you'll have to get creative with hoses ) But It will run much hotter if you do . Those after market radiators are single pass. The Jaguar is a triple pass radiator designed to pull every single degree of heat out. If it's overheating with the Jaguar radiator the problem is the distributor not the cooling system on page 65 of the owners manual it tells you to oil the distributor . Nobody ever does so the advance mechanism freezes up and the timing is off causing overheating Simple to do.
Ask, I'll walk you through it.
Maybe we can work a deal? I send you one of my radiators if you'll lend me your body kit to make a mold from? I'll send it back with all the blemishes taken care of and 4 coats of wax on it?
In reply to frenchyd :
The car simply does not have a radiator at all. I am looking for a Jag radiator because I've read how some aftermarket don't do well.
Shipping the bodykit would be a PITA for me but I'd gladly buy a radiator off of you!
Pattyo said:Let me know when you are done with it, I'd like to see how much trouble I can get into with it!
For sure. I'm going to get it in driving condition first. There is 1 GRM in line ahead of you but I'll keep you in mind.
yupididit said:In reply to frenchyd :
The car simply does not have a radiator at all. I am looking for a Jag radiator because I've read how some aftermarket don't do well.
Shipping the bodykit would be a PITA for me but I'd gladly buy a radiator off of you!
What if I bring the radiator to you and pick up the body kit? It will take me a while to get over the round trip. Texas isn't it? But I'll fix up the parts, wax them, take a mold off them and ship them back to you.
TurnerX19 said:In reply to pres589 (djronnebaum) :
The original Jag red paint is single stage, no top coat. Even some of the metallics were still single stage when this car was new. I think what you see as worn through top coat is really spray can spot repair.
Interesting story about paint on newer Jaguars, that is post lacquer paint. Somewhere in the early 1970's
"Jaguar" *bought GM's TPA paint process. TPA stands for Thermal Plastic Acrylic. Basically the final coat is heated until it melts. Resulting in a shiny finished surface.
* actually it was Castle Bromwich the body shop that built all the Jaguar bodies ( that used the WW2 plant that built the famous Spitfire aircraft).
I digress, the problem was much of the hand crafted bodywork in Jaguars used lead to smooth out blemishes and various seams. The difference in temp between melted lead and the paint melting and flowing was very small. As a result bodies would need to be stripped and refinished. Sometimes 2-3 times.
So there you have it. Jaguars use GM transmissions, power steering, various electronics, Rear ends, and painting process.
frenchyd said:yupididit said:In reply to frenchyd :
The car simply does not have a radiator at all. I am looking for a Jag radiator because I've read how some aftermarket don't do well.
Shipping the bodykit would be a PITA for me but I'd gladly buy a radiator off of you!
What if I bring the radiator to you and pick up the body kit? It will take me a while to get over the round trip. Texas isn't it? But I'll fix up the parts, wax them, take a mold off them and ship them back to you.
No, I'd be worried that I wouldn't get the bodykit back. Not because I think you're shady but who knows what could happen to you in the near future. The executors of your estate might not find it worthwhile sending me my E36 M3.
You should save that roadtrip for the Challenge.
But, I'll gladly buy a radiator off of you.
I found out the bodykit is a TWR kit.
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