MONZORA redux: ‘65 Corvair + ‘94 Corvette mashup for 2019 Challenge

In reply to Opti :

Wheel strength only matters if they are really getting beaten on. Wheels up launches and the like. 

In reply to DarkMonohue :

5x120mm, practically equal to 5x4.75". Pilot hole should be slightly larger than the C4 hub. I know my E60 rims bolted on.

Opti said:

GTO spares where the go to cheap 4th gen skinnies for a long time. Some people complained about wheel strength but I saw a bunch of people running them

I had a pair of them but they looked terrible on the car. The spokes are really far outboard of the rim.

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:

5x120mm, practically equal to 5x4.75". Pilot hole should be slightly larger than the C4 hub. I know my E60 rims bolted on.

Okay, that's pretty close. Nothing some hubcentric rings and lug nut seat trickery couldn't overcome if a guy wanted to be extra careful. 

berkeley!

TIL that the i3 PCD is 5x112

*after* I paid cash

What the berk uses 5x112?  And why?  Don't we have enough wheel bolt patterns in the world already?

I can send some more pot pie cartons if you need templates for wheel adapters...

In reply to DarkMonohue :

VW/Audi use 5x112

my Saab 9-3 is 5x110

my Escape is 5x108

my 2010 Odyssey and all my BMWs have been 5x120

Think my benz was 112 too

Patrick said:

Think my benz was 112 too

Yeah, Mercedes and some modern BMW are x112. I thought mostly x(whatever)/x3/x5 etc but til also the i3. 

Yup... and i think its MOST new BMW'S nowadays... in every series.

And a TON of VAG products, the new Supra as well (bmw product, afterall), the Crossfire (mercedes product ), a huge list of Mercedes-Benz,  some Bentley junk and on and on all are 5x112. 

It only took me like a year but I drew up a copy of the other Corvair emblem Angry sent me.  The "1" in the 110 emblem was much easier to draw and modify to turn into a L and a T as well than adding letters to the Monzora emblem.  I'm even more stoked about this emblem, the 110 badge has a lot of little texture details that I think I nailed and they came out great on the resin printer. 

That's bitchin. Out of curiosity what resin printer and resin are you using? I've got a large format (600x600x600) FDM I run and have been thinking about adding a resin printer to the mix. Seems like they would be great for 3d printed dome light lenses, one off shift and dash knobs, etc.

RacetruckRon said:

It only took me like a year but I drew up a copy of the other Corvair emblem Angry sent me.  The "1" in the 110 emblem was much easier to draw and modify to turn into a L and a T as well than adding letters to the Monzora emblem.  I'm even more stoked about this emblem, the 110 badge has a lot of little texture details that I think I nailed and they came out great on the resin printer. 

OMG dude that is sick! It is exactly what I had in mind when I asked you to try your hand at it. I heart subtle details.

In reply to GaryC83 :

I have an OG Elegoo Mars. I've been looking at upgrading and getting a Saturn or larger but I haven't had a lot of projects in the last year to justify it. The resin is quite a bit nastier to deal with and much more brittle than the thermoplastics from FDM print but the high detail is hard to beat. 

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:

vwcorvette (Forum Supporter) said:

In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :

Maybe you covered this previously, but why not simply enclose the entire area around the engine from side to side? Why the box with the space on either side? Isn't that a lot more work? Couldn't you have done one front panel from door to door and then a cover across the entire rear seat area?

Good question, and a design choice that I have not addressed until now. There are a couple of reasons:

1. I didn't want to lose access to the rear window cranks.
2. I wanted a dedicated space for battery and "under-hood" fuse panel.
3. There is no third reason.

yes, it's a lot more work to do it this way. 

Okay. Carry on.

3. Because you can.

vwcorvette (Forum Supporter) said:

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:

vwcorvette (Forum Supporter) said:

In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :

Maybe you covered this previously, but why not simply enclose the entire area around the engine from side to side? Why the box with the space on either side? Isn't that a lot more work? Couldn't you have done one front panel from door to door and then a cover across the entire rear seat area?

Good question, and a design choice that I have not addressed until now. There are a couple of reasons:

1. I didn't want to lose access to the rear window cranks.
2. I wanted a dedicated space for battery and "under-hood" fuse panel.
3. There is no third reason.

yes, it's a lot more work to do it this way. 

Okay. Carry on.

3. Because you can. Eventually.

fixed

Could you drill out the lug holes on those i3 wheels and make up some offset spacers to get the correct pattern??

or are these wheels even worth the effort?

In reply to jfryjfry :

I've already got 15" centerline skinnies so I have no need for these, just thought they were cool because it's a really weird OE size. Not worth the effort to me, will be posting for sale soon.

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:

In reply to jfryjfry :

I've already got 15" centerline skinnies so I have no need for these, just thought they were cool because it's a really weird OE size. Not worth the effort to me, will be posting for sale soon.

You only have two of the i3 wheels right? Lemme see if the wife wants to get them and two more for her winter tire changeover. Probably not, but I can ask. She hates spending money! Lol

vwcorvette (Forum Supporter) said:

AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:

In reply to jfryjfry :

I've already got 15" centerline skinnies so I have no need for these, just thought they were cool because it's a really weird OE size. Not worth the effort to me, will be posting for sale soon.

You only have two of the i3 wheels right? Lemme see if the wife wants to get them and two more for her winter tire changeover. Probably not, but I can ask. She hates spending money! Lol

I have all four, 19x5, all tires are 155/70 Blizzaks dated (year)2019, two look like they were on the front ie worn on outside edges.

Left front firewall panel measures 19" tall by 12-1/8" wide. Here's how I made it.

1. Start with scrap bookshelf, lay out cut lines for 1/2" overlap at all seams

2. remove all material that isn't part of final product

3. mark and remove paint from all weld seams

4. clamp for welding

5. temporarily install and wonder how it came out 1/4" too tall

i also welded up the center panel, which had to be done before I could finalize dimensions on the side panels

making progress, a little here and a little there. I also left myself a note:

In reply to RacetruckRon :

Excellent, thanks for the info. And that increase in detail is exactly why I'm interested in one.  Again, badge came out awesome, and thanks again for the info. Appreciate it. 

In reply to GaryC83 :

I chuckle a little every time you post here because of the remarkable contrast in what we each call "sheetmetal work". Your input here and elsewhere has been a real gift to me. i thoroughly enjoy the techniques and details you share.

For the right front panel I did mostly butt joints, and it seems like I got a lot less oil-canning as a result.

also, I'm so good at shutting off the gas that I forgot to turn it back on for a couple of "afterthought" tacks. Doh!

next up: gonna see if I can cut a decent 3-3/4" hole with my crappy band saw.

For your 3-3/4 hole use a smaller hole saw and then finish with tin snips and files. Dont forget to trace the shape before cutting and trim to the line.

May even want to flange the hole a little bit. A pair of pliers and a small hammer will get you there.