Apologize if it's in the thread somewhere but what skirts are those?
Are those borbet wheels? Looks good in winter mode.
Apologize if it's in the thread somewhere but what skirts are those?
Are those borbet wheels? Looks good in winter mode.
In reply to iansane :
No skirts. The body is compley factory.
In the pic, the front wheels are the summer borbet wheels. The rears are the factory B4 Ronals with the snow tires.
So unfortunately I didn't get to play much. After having the blower decide to not work this morning when I got off work, I fixed that in the parking lot at work, I had to do the adult thing of clearing the snow from the driveway and side walks. By the time I was done, the near by parking lots had all been cleared. I did have a little fun on the way to work, so at least it wasn't a total loss haha.
So on Saturday I went to leave work at 730am. It was 7°F. I started the car with no issue. Sitting for a few minutes I noticed the car was getting engulfed in smoke. Popped the door open and the unmistable smell of burning oil was present. It was pumping out a ton of oil smoke from the exhaust. I honestly thought my turbo oil seal had failed! To make a long story short, it turns out my catch can had frozen, plugging off the breather line. This caused enough pressure that the oil was bypassing things it shouldn't be. I left the breather line sitting next to the can, and everything cleared up.
This is more of a PSA than an update. I do think I'm going to go back to being canless again though.
Yeah, you gotta empty the cans a lot in the winter. Or just not run one when it's cold...
In reply to de80q :
I was/am in the same boat. I just do not know what I need to do to run canless in the winter.
Absolutely LOVE your Audi!
There are catch cans that are designed to be heated by engine coolant--if you're daily driving through the winter, that's the way to go.
In reply to docwyte :
I set it back up to run without the can. Once I build a larger one that I can mount higher in the bay, I'll try it again.
In reply to preach (dudeist priest) :
Your car is actually what a friend of mine used as an example. He installed an 034 system on one, and it froze. This caused all kinds of bad things to happen on that car. He removed it, put it back to stock, and she drove it another 40k miles before trading it in.
In reply to obsolete :
I had actually looked into those. I just can't make myself but one right now. This car sees maybe 2k miles a year. Most of which is in 70°F + weather.
So after removing the can, I emptied it. It was all water! There was very little oil present in the can. This is probably because of the location of it. It sits in my PS fender area, so it's kind of a low point in the system. Trying to figure out a good place to mount a larger one.
Less than ideal since the lines are so long but I mounted the Mann/hummel can over by the brake booster. Made a bracket that spaned from the radiator support to the ABS bracket, IIRC. It's been a bit and looking through photos I never took a great shot of it. I made a small bracket off the swaybar mount that mounted a bulkheadfitting and ball valve to drain. It sits a few cm away from the oil drain plug so it'd be hard to forget to drain.
In reply to iansane :
I had looked at that location, but my coil rack lives there. I do like those Mann setups though.
I'll have to keep this in mind for if/when I get the 200 running again. Never knew this was a possibility.
So a little update.
After rebuilding the rear calipers, the Ebrake seams to work perfectly. Unfortunately, I didn't think to lube the cables. They are loosening up as I use the car daily now, but I worry that if I let it sit again, they might freeze up.
As for the catch can issue, with having removed it, and plumbed in the breather hose without it, I have had no more issues there.
Hopefully soon, I'll have my other pair of B5 rear hubs, and I'll start swapping out for 5 lug.
In Saturday I decided with the nicer weather it was time to finally swap out the coolant reservoir. It had an aftermarket one installed when I purchased the car, and it finally broke. It is a pretty common thing on the non-OEM tanks. They either split at the seam, or crack near the nipple where the rad hooks up. Well mine cracked there. It didn't leak much, so I didn't think about it too much. Well, I should have.
After installing a cleaned up OEM one, which NEVER fail, they just get really dirty and yellowed, my heat works SO MUCH better. I guess I never really thought about the fact I was no longer getting pressure built up in the system anymore. Oh well, that's one more fluid I'm not leaking any more.
Next will probably be the PS system. The fluid for that, AKA Green Gold, is getting more expensive, so need to get that fixed.
Well, there has been no real update, as it has just been working. That was until last week.
Needed to get some chemicals for the pool, so decided to take the 80q. I got about half way to the store when I noticed my clutch peddle wasn't returning the whole way anymore. If I bump the peddle up, it will spring up, but 1st gear still feels like there is almost nothing between on and off with the clutch.
I'm really hoping it's just the hydraulics and not the pressure plate. I've had spec plates fail in the past, so it honestly wouldn't be a surprise if it has broken. The good news is I have a brand new master and slave on the shelf, along with a braided line to connect them, and get rid of the rusty 30+ year old OEM one.
Bummer. Here's to hoping it's just hydraulics...
Hopefully I'll be able to find out soon. Just far too many projects to do in the summer time.
If anyone is interested, my audi's are now for sale. Too many other projects and interests to take care of.
Oooh, how much?
iansane said:Oooh, how much?
This.
Asking $5000 for the 80q. Here is a link for all that is done to it, and could come with it. Would possibly trade for an adventure motorcycle as well.
https://www.motorgeek.com/threads/1991-80q-10vt-efi-swapped-black-on-platinum.221405/#post-1212229
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