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paddygarcia
paddygarcia GRM+ Memberand Reader
3/27/22 8:23 p.m.

Suggestions appreciated. This is the way the car came to me, and it makes sense to me for an open crankcase system - same as a filter on each port + a catch can. There's no plenum to run a PCV valve into.

ish_da
ish_da New Reader
3/27/22 11:09 p.m.
 

 What are these hoses for? Normally Weber intakes have them on top of the manifold where parts are from crank house ventilation and other part for brake booster, but I see you're not utilizing that.

The B20 130-series have a different brake system similar to the 140-series. Yours looks like a -68, a one year only brake system. The PCV is different, in general, depending on if the car has a B18 or B20 from Volvo. B18 has a little "tube" right after the flame trap that has a loose restrictor in it that tends to rattle while the engine is idling. B2o intake has a "tuned port" fitting instead on the manifold that only allows so much vacuum being pulled. I can measure this restricted fitting on my 1800E if you need that information.

Here's a 123GT for reference where you can see the restrictor, which I guess is technically a PCV valve. I need to check in a parts catalog to see what Volvo calls it.



The reason why I think a working crank house ventilation is important, is that our old cars pollute bad enough as it is to not add anything else unnecessary to the atmosphere.

Small edit: I stumbled over these when I did a quick search and from what I can tell I am certain these are Volvo R-Sport https://www.tradera.com/item/301915/534066385/dubbla-solex-45-genomgangna-med-insug

paddygarcia
paddygarcia GRM+ Memberand Reader
3/28/22 7:32 a.m.

It would be nice if my manifold had those ports, but alas not. There's one on cylinder #1 but dumping all of the crankcase ventilation into one cylinder doesn't seem like a good idea.

TurnerX19
TurnerX19 UltraDork
3/28/22 9:04 a.m.

I would like to see you fabricate a PCV system as they make the engine run better as well as cleaner, but, you are 100% correct that you do not want to run all to a single cylinder. 

paddygarcia
paddygarcia GRM+ Memberand Reader
3/28/22 2:49 p.m.

Me too.

How separate does pcv have to be from vacuum? 

TurnerX19
TurnerX19 UltraDork
3/28/22 4:47 p.m.

In reply to paddygarcia :

I have been experimenting recently with a Weber carb Lotus Twin Cam, a fresh rebuild, and so far I have not found "far enough"sad I have been using the same PCV valve that is OEM to your Volvo. My valve to vacuum manifold run is noteably shorter in vertical and horizontal dimension than yours would be on the Volvo. I also do not have the space for the separator can that the Volvo has beneath the valve. I put 1/16 NPT fittings in all 4 intake runners and led them into a 6 way manifold block I bought from McMaster-Carr. I would try the same technique on the Volvo. Sorry no photos. My partner in crime may have some, I'll post them if he does. 

paddygarcia
paddygarcia GRM+ Memberand Reader
3/28/22 9:00 p.m.

Sounds familiar! I tried plumbing vacuum for an eventual efi project but it's plugged right now. Maybe attempt #2 should be pcv?

 

TurnerX19
TurnerX19 UltraDork
3/28/22 9:46 p.m.

In reply to paddygarcia :

You are 1/2 way there. I ran 4 separate hoses to the vacuum manifold that on your engine could easily be bracketed off of the 2 upper intake manifold studs in the center. I think this is the manifold I used  https://www.mcmaster.com/5469K131 .

paddygarcia
paddygarcia GRM+ Memberand Reader
3/29/22 11:03 a.m.

Thanks - I remember looking at that one when putting this mess together. Ideally everything can stay mostly out of sight. 

Jenvey used some spacers to get vacuum signal on the Aston with FI. If I did similar when its FI time (throttle bodies are on the shelf) the PCV would come up from the bottom in the middle of the runner and vacuum from the top/side of the carb end of the runner.

EDIT: maybe I should have RTFM, there are bosses for vacuum underneath the throttle bodies. Problem solved, my plumbing can be for PCV.

paddygarcia
paddygarcia GRM+ Memberand Reader
4/30/22 8:52 p.m.

Works been a little busy, but I got some shop time in. With a little drilling I was able to use a 9mm empty as a restrictor. Might add a PCV valve, too.

paddygarcia
paddygarcia GRM+ Memberand Reader
5/30/22 10:05 p.m.

In the 2 steps forward, 1 step back department, this week:

  • Hood on!
  • Medium road drive to pick up take out!
  • Radiator leaks!

I was stoked to find a place a few towns over that rebuilds radiators. Less stoked today to see that it's leaking from the core. It was actually only leaking a little bit from the top tank when I sent it over there, should have let sleeping dogs lie. $466 later a new rad from VP is on the way.

paddygarcia
paddygarcia GRM+ Memberand Reader
6/9/22 9:16 p.m.

Well, there's your problem right there. First pic is the old rad filler cap, with the nipple that was run to the overflow/pressure tank. Second is the NOS factory cap I had to buy because the Stant didn't fit on the new rad. That's because it's the wrong cap and doesn't allow the tank to communicate with the radiator unless the cap popped @ 15psi. Moreover, it compresses so far in the neck that I think it doesn't actually open. Which might be a reason the old rad leaked.

The NOS cap is used only to fill the rad, and the tank has the pressure cap.

$500 lighter I now have a new 3 row radiator that's set up correctly, look forward to driving this weekend.

 

paddygarcia
paddygarcia GRM+ Memberand Reader
6/15/22 8:57 a.m.

A shakedown run on the weekend showed that the 123 Ignition dizzy was programmed a little too aggressively so I dropped it back to 32 degrees total advance.

Out today for a 50+ mile errand run, if I'm not back in a week send out the dogs.

paddygarcia
paddygarcia GRM+ Memberand Reader
6/16/22 12:07 p.m.

All good yesterday, other than leaking valve cover gasket. Today I came home on a flatbed. The upper alternator bracket bolt backed out of the head. The lower bracket was kind of loose, so need to dig into that this weekend - thought it was shimmed to manufacturers spec. 

paddygarcia
paddygarcia GRM+ Memberand Reader
6/30/22 9:44 a.m.

Two bolts and one helicoil later everything's back together. Out today for a swim and coffee before work.

AxeHealey
AxeHealey GRM+ Memberand Dork
6/30/22 10:23 a.m.

I really dig everything about this car. 

volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse PowerDork
6/30/22 10:56 a.m.

Interesting reverse PCV.  OEM setup is to suck in through the oil cap and out from the flame trap in the block into the intake.  Any reason why you reversed it?  I don't see why it wouldn't work, just interesting. 

On my 4 door Amazon, it's been leaking badly out of the oil cap.  I put on a new gasket, and went through the whole PCV system, still leaking oil.  I'm about ready to try a new valve cover. 

paddygarcia
paddygarcia GRM+ Memberand Reader
6/30/22 11:29 a.m.

Volvo did it both ways - b18 and before took in air from the filler cap and exhausted the crankcase through the block. Early b20 the same, later b20 reversed. I did it this way to minimize hoses.

I don't think it matters as long as there's a filtered gozinta and a vacuum gozouta. Theres plenty of flow between crankcase and valve cover, pushrod V8s vent in one valve cover and out the other.

Regarding your filler/valve cover leaking, if the PCV is OK are you sure it's not being overloaded with blowby? Any leaks from the dipstick?

volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse PowerDork
6/30/22 12:13 p.m.

In reply to paddygarcia :

It could be blowby overloading, but it seemed to happen all of a sudden.  Of course, that could be a blown ring or something.  The car still seems to run fine, though I have never done a compression test on it.  No leaks from the dipstick. 

Jerry From LA
Jerry From LA SuperDork
6/30/22 10:55 p.m.
volvoclearinghouse said:

In reply to paddygarcia :

 The car still seems to run fine, though I have never done a compression test on it. 

150 pounds or more and you're good.

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