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Toyman01
Toyman01 GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
7/29/17 4:44 p.m.
Run_Away wrote: Man I'm jealous! I want to follow a build thread for a shuttle van too now. Excellent buy. Does the lift have the height ability to work on Sanford, assuming you don't sell it?

Like this one?

Moriens. The Short Bus.

Petrolburner
Petrolburner Dork
8/13/17 8:58 p.m.

What was that ceramic paint you used on the roof to reflect the heat?

ultraclyde
ultraclyde PowerDork
8/14/17 12:12 p.m.

Shame you already chose a paint scheme...

Toyman01
Toyman01 GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
8/14/17 3:32 p.m.

In reply to Petrolburner:

Kool Seal is what I used.

There is also a brand called Bus Kote.

Toyman01
Toyman01 GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
8/20/17 9:13 a.m.

A little progress yesterday and today.

Don't forget you PPE.

Toyman01
Toyman01 GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
8/20/17 6:00 p.m.

Ceiling paint is done. It isn't perfect, but it's as good as it's going to get for now.

I might see if I can get the interior lights installed tomorrow.

java230
java230 SuperDork
8/20/17 7:42 p.m.

That looks GREAT!

Toyman01
Toyman01 GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
8/21/17 1:11 p.m.

From page 1. Moldy carpet, rust, water leaks, and ugly light fixtures.

Page 5. The start, many moons ago.

Today. 95% done. I still need to replace the front vent and trim since I'm not installing a roof A/C, and I still need to tie the lights into a nonexistent fuse block. Other than that, the ceiling is pretty much complete.

Toyman01
Toyman01 GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
10/1/17 7:45 p.m.

More than a month between updates. That's pretty bad. 

Thanksgiving weekend my parents have 31 guest showing up. Sanford has to be ready to make the hour drive down to my parents house so I have a place to sleep for the weekend. The inside is pretty good other than a good cleaning and some throw rugs. 

The driving part and the wiring needs work. Lots of work. Yesterday I reinstalled some exterior lights and got a plan together for the wiring. Fuse blocks and switches are on the way. 

The next plan was the brakes. To say the brakes suck, is a understatement. The system under it from the factory is complicated. The master cylinder, actuates a vacuum booster, that then actuates the wheel cylinders through a valve on the back of the master cylinder. Just to make things more fun, all of this is mounted under the floor. 

Several months ago I purchased a master cylinder kit to swap over to a standard vacuum power boosted system. This thing.

There were a few problem with this kit though. It was designed for a automatic F series truck, not a manual B series bus. That required some modification. Mostly turning the booster around in the bracket and installing it in the bus backwards. 

So what we have now is this. 

It's all  bolted in place and ready for the lines to be hooked up. That will hopefully happen this week. There is some question as to whether or not this master cylinder will work. We shall see. 

mazdeuce
mazdeuce MegaDork
10/1/17 8:03 p.m.

The origional remote booster, was it single channel or dual? Looking around at parts online I keep seeing Ford as the other user of remote booster but I can't figure out if any of them are dual channel or not. 

Toyman01
Toyman01 GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
10/1/17 8:16 p.m.

Single. That was another reason to change the system. I wanted dual circuits. That and the new master is a common GM part that should be available anywhere. 

 

AngryCorvair
AngryCorvair GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
10/2/17 10:37 a.m.

In reply to Toyman01 :

Do you know the piston diameters in the old and the new masters?

mazdeuce
mazdeuce MegaDork
10/2/17 11:08 a.m.
AngryCorvair said:

In reply to Toyman01 :

Do you know the piston diameters in the old and the new masters?

That was going to be my next question. I'm seriously considering a bell crank to be able to use a standard master. 

Toyman01
Toyman01 GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
10/2/17 11:24 a.m.

In reply to AngryCorvair :

I researched all of this several months ago. Off the top of my head the new master is slightly larger in diameter than the old and the stroke is the same. The power booster should take care of most of the added pedal effort. 

I hope. 

Keith Tanner
Keith Tanner GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
10/2/17 11:30 a.m.

That booster should easily make up the difference. It's probably 4-7 times pedal pressure. Keep in mind that if you're changing the linkage at the pedal, the pedal ratio has an effect as well.

Toyman01
Toyman01 GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
10/2/17 12:46 p.m.

The linkage isn't going to change and pedal will not change so the ratio will be the same. As luck would have it everything lined up almost perfectly. I didn't even need to fabricate the push rod. 

AngryCorvair
AngryCorvair GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
10/3/17 12:53 a.m.

In reply to Keith Tanner :

Dammit Keith, we've been over this before.  It's pedal *force*, not pedal *pressure*!!!  

Aside from that, AFAIK, I don't think you've ever been wrong.  ;-)

oldopelguy
oldopelguy UltraDork
10/3/17 7:07 a.m.

Are you planning on preemptively installing an electric vacuum pump for when you swap to the diesel or just cross that bridge when you get there? I would have leaned towards hydroboost over vacuum knowing it was going diesel in the future.

 

Toyman01
Toyman01 GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
10/3/17 9:04 a.m.

The 6.0 has a vacuum pump on it, so I could stay with this, however, The E450 also has a Hydroboost system on it.

Unless these brakes work particularly well, the long term solution will probably be Hydroboost. That will happen when the engine swap happens and I strip the E450 down.

Toyman01
Toyman01 GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
10/7/17 5:32 p.m.

The weatherman lied so I was able to work on the brakes. The good news is everything installed just like I thought it would. 

Now the bad. I started bleeding it, and the rear rubber line stopped up completely. That cost me an hour tracking down the line. For some reason the parts house can't look up parts for a 56 bus. Go figure. Replaced that, and the rear still won't bleed. I'm not getting any pedal. I started pulling the rear drums to see if they were just way out of adjustment, but the drum is stuck on the shoes. At that point, I was tired and pissed off, so I quit for the day. 

I may or may not screw with it tomorrow. 

BrokenYugo
BrokenYugo MegaDork
10/7/17 6:17 p.m.

If you had a decent pedal before the drum adjsutment should be good enough. In any event if the last guy in there knew what he was doing the adjusters should be greased and turn easy, no need to pull the drums. Did you bench bleed the master? They can be a pain to bleed if you didn't, the master needs to be perfectly level to get all the air out of it. 

 

Toyman01
Toyman01 GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
10/7/17 6:31 p.m.

In reply to BrokenYugo :

It had pedal before, but the soft line to the rear axle was completely stopped up, so I don't know if they are adjusted correctly or not. It also has dual wheel cylinders, so I'm not sure if it has adjuster or not. I'll spend some time going through the service manual and see what it says. 

It will probably look completely differnent tomorrow, when my brain has had some sleep. 

mazdeuce
mazdeuce MegaDork
10/7/17 7:04 p.m.

All of the dual cylinder brakes I've taken apart (admittedly not a lot) still have adjusters. 

BrokenYugo
BrokenYugo MegaDork
10/7/17 11:11 p.m.

It probably doesn't have automatic adjsuters, but it must have adjusters of some sort in there that should be acessible with the drum installed. If it has dual cylinders I think it will have dual adjusters. 

 

Toyman01
Toyman01 GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
10/8/17 8:12 a.m.

I spend some time digging through the service manual. It looks like the axle could have one of several types of adjusters. But, since the drum is already hung up on the shoes, I'm wondering if there is much adjustment to be made. I would also think the 10psi residual valves would take up that slack. I'll be digging into that today.

I'm starting to wonder if the master cylinder I'm using doesn't have enough volume. I did the calculations based on the wheel cylinders and I would think they would be correct. Maybe I screw up somewhere. The old system used a master cylinder and a booster cylinder. The two of those together may have a good bit more volume than the master I'm using now. The old stuff was 7/8" bore. The new master is 1" bore. If I don't have an epiphany today, I'll probably order the larger bore master and see what that does. It looks like I can order something with a 1.250" bore that will bolt up for about $40. 

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