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Reaper1 New Reader
2/28/20 1:04 p.m.
AngryCorvair said:

In reply to Reaper1 :

sorry, I do not. I will say that if there's a way to adapt the later TRW front calipers, they are significantly better than those old Bendix calipers you've got.

Maybe it's time for you to get a set of junkyard knuckles and figure out a better mousetrap.

So, after a bit of Google searching, I came across some threads where it was figured out how to upgrade the brakes on 2000+ trucks to the Gen 3 brakes (calipers are same design). Requires the use of 17" or larger wheels and from what I am reading, it seems as if the older trucks can't do this readily as something is different with the uprights and ball joints. Ugghh...

klipless Reader
2/28/20 2:04 p.m.

Based off of Angry's first-hand knowledge, it sounds like the caliper is limiting how much 'squeeze' you can put on the brake pads. Higher brake pressures are just deflecting the caliper and not really applying any more force to the pads. Instead of doing a brake system swap, you could try a set of more aggressive pads. That way you get more braking torque for the same amount of pad force.

If you go that route, make sure you find a pad that can provides most of its stopping power at lower temperatures. A race pad that you have to get hot won't do you any good in a daily driving situation, you're likely to make the situation worse. Like anything in life, brake pads are a trade-off between things like cost, brake dust, noise, and performance (even at different temps). I wish I could get you a recommendation, but I'm not familiar with the options for a Dodge truck. You could start with a well know brand like EBC and see what they offer. I don't think a discounted set of brake pads from the parts store is going to work for you. And if you go that route, please do a proper burnish on them once they're installed. 


06HHR Dork
2/28/20 2:34 p.m.

Since it hasn't been mentioned yet, you may want to check your rear brakes and make sure they are properly adjusted.  I have a 91 Chevy C1500 with the RWAL, replaced the shoes out back but didn't have them adjusted out far enough for them to properly "drag" on the brake drum.  The result was some truly scary behavior and a brake light on the dash whenever I had to stop.  After a few days of this I took the drums off expecting to see some broken springs or a blown wheel cylinder, but everything was there and working as it should.  Adjusted the shoes so they just touched the drums as I slid them on the axle and all was right again.   Like you said, none of the trucks from this era (90's) will stop on a dime so you put the best components you can on them, make sure they are installed properly and drive accordingly, i.e. give yourself an extra bit of room to the car in front and stop a bit sooner they you absolutely have to.  

Reaper1 New Reader
3/2/20 12:04 p.m.

In reply to klipless :

My first brake "upgrade" was to EBC Green Stuff pads and EBC slotted rotors. The pads worked "ok", but wore out quickly, so I replaced them with EBC Yellow Stuff pads. I like the initial bite on them much more and they seem to do a decent job, but maybe I need to get even *MORE* aggressive. I know the next set of pads will require new rotors again, as the Yellow Stuff has eaten into the rotors pretty well.

As a side note, I hardly ever use parts store pads anymore. Always EBC, Porterfield, Carbotech...something "decent".

Reaper1 New Reader
3/2/20 12:05 p.m.

In reply to 06HHR :

Thanks. I did just do the right rear wheel cylinder a few months ago and adjusted the rear brakes at that time. I also have a rear disc conversion waiting to go on, but the brackets need to be welded onto the axle tubes and I don't have my other car on the road right now in order to do this (just in case). Not that I think that will solve the issue.

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