In reply to Slippery :
Good call on Majestic, they've got mine for about 10% less as well:
this reminds me that my local Honda dealer noticed my Lordstown Motors shirt last time I went in, and gave me a pretty good discount vs over the counter. I'll stop in at lunchtime tomorrow before I order anything. I guess I'll have to make sure I've got a clean Lordstown shirt to wear!
van has almost 224k. Moog arms are steel vs OEM aluminum, but they're $106 each vs $355. Hmmm.
Great call on Majestic! I noticed some larger than normal price discrepancies among the typical Honda online dealers that I use when I went to buy a replacement power sliding door motor (replacement cables snapped 3x, so I used the nuclear option). I went with BKHondaParts, who has the control arms for $530 (same as Majestic).
Majestic:
BKHondaParts:
Either way, thanks for the $37 savings per side! The 2005-10 and 2011-17 have a different part number, which is why you're seeing a significant price difference between the two versions.
I'm seeing this thread now for the first time.
Anyone else who did - were you also expecting the Odyssey engine/transaxle to end up transplanted into the back half of a Civic?
In reply to RandolphCarter :
We should hang out.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to RandolphCarter :
We should hang out.
Anytime you're near Albany/Saratoga NY.
I'll happily send you on your way with mouldering, obsolete bike parts.
Apparently my quality control isn't what it used to be. Excerpt from text conversation with AK2 yesterday:
the "thing bearings" she's asking about are the sloppy lower ball joints. I ordered LCAs but they're not here yet.
so when I got home last night I started (and finished) by checking the last thing we touched: lug nuts. All 20 moved before clicking at 90 lb-ft. 3 of 5 on each front wheel took 90 degrees to click. So yeah, once again I was that guy. I think what happened was AK2 did first step of torquing to 45 lb-ft, and we didn't follow up with step 2. Oops. No harm done, and props to AK2 for noticing the change in NVH and reporting it right away.
It was a nice enough day today (36-ish and no wind), so Ody went under the knife:
Moog LCAs and OTREs, Honda Genuine sway bar end links:
and 3 quart ATF drain and fill:
And she's ready for another mess of miles. At just a hair under 226k, she's only got 30k to go to surpass the '03 Ody we traded in to get her.
EDIT: holy balls, huge improvement to ride, handling, and NVH. $400 well spent. 10/10, would do again.
One thing I can say for AK2 is that she's obsessive about that oil change indicator. Twas a beautiful day in my part of Michigun, so Ody got engine oil and filter, power steering fluid change, and a new wiper on drivers side. Just shy of 231k and climbing.
Front tire wear suggests she needs a toe adjustment.
If she was driving the Saab she would not have this problem. Jk.
In reply to cdowd (Forum Supporter) :
She'd have to fight Mama for it...
AK2 called to let me know that the CEL came on, solid not flashing, so we read the codes when she got home. P0174 and P0430. At 230k miles it's probably asking for an o2 sensor but I suggested running a tank of premium and matting the throttle away from every light, because i don't feel like fighting with said o2 sensor. She just texted to let me know that (1) the CEL went away and (2) it's more fun to drive this way. Good kid.
The good: a tank of premium and a heavier right foot chased the CEL away.
The bad: I never adjusted the toe, and completely horse-berkeleyed the front Blizzaks in just 9k miles:
so by being late on the $120 alignment I ruined $360 worth of tires. And still had to get the alignment. Oh well, summers are on again and I had it aligned this morning.
Your cautionary tale is a good reminder that I need to rotate the tires on our cars too. Thanks for your sacrifice
jfryjfry said:Your cautionary tale is a good reminder that I need to rotate the tires on our cars too. Thanks for your sacrifice
Rotate the tires?
Don't they rotate by themselves when you drive?
(Sorry, couldn't resist)
238k and counting. Engine oil and filter, 3 qts ATF drain and fill.
Noticed torn boot on drivers side outer CV, will be replacing axle (again) under warranty from Advance.
Two non-Corvairs in the garage in just two days, it's madness I tell you! Today was replace driver's side halfshaft day. This is the third CarQuest brand driver's side halfshaft she's eaten. The first one lasted 81k. The second one barely went 36k.
239k and climbing. She's a beast!
Spent some quality time in the u-pull today, got a drive motor, cables, latch, and weatherstrip for the drivers side power sliding door.
cable has been broken for a while, but the latch recently quit latching all the way, and the wind noise was kinda deafening. It started raining as I left the JY and it's still coming down, so I'll probably not jump into the R&R until Monday night.
Where were you Patrick? Which local yard?
In reply to wawazat :
USAuto on 18-1/2 between Mound and Van Dyke
I know that one and have wandered it a few times in the past. Thanks.
today at lunchtime i removed old door latch and installed JYNew part, pulled the door shut, and it wouldn't open from the inside. it was at that moment i realized i hadn't actually checked that it opened and closed properly before removing it from the JY van. so i go around to the outside and pull the handle and i get no joy.
so now i've got a door that is fully closed, which is an improvement, but it won't open, which is definitely not an improvement.
i call my buddy who runs an indy shop and he calls me an shiny happy person, and says he'll ask his techs if they've got any suggestions.
then i text my wife who says "she's a kid, having a door that doesn't open will give her stories to tell when she's old."
so i go back to the van, still kinda dejected, to install the interior trim, and realize i locked the door while removing the trim. Duh. Unlock door and it opens and closes just fine from inside and outside.
next up: pulling the quarter panel interior trim so i can replace the motor and cable assembly.
You're a smart man for replacing the whole assembly - cables and all. Our cable broke on our '17, and I tried two different aftermarket cables, both which broke in short order. So I ordered the whole assembly, and now I need to get up the energy to take everything apart for the third time. In my case, the release actuator was also bad (it would make a loud popping sound), which is what I believe killed the cables. So I had to buy the third gen actuator, pillage parts, and install it on my 4th gen.
TLDR - you're doing it right by replacing the entire assembly the first time
I took PTO today to work on MonZora, but the organizer of the DACC event called and said we'd do an indoor talk since we're supposed to get thunderstorms tomorrow.
rather than go to work, I tackled the power sliding door motor and cable replacement. No big details to share, as it's a very straight forward job. Trickiest part is popping the taillight to access the track cover body panel rear screw.
the job did throw me a slight curve ball when the bracket for the front attachment of the track cover panel came off due to broken spot welds.
So I got to use the hot glue gun on the Ody for the first time!
one slight tech tip: to keep from dropping a fastener, put a piece of paper towel across the socket before using it:
didn't drop a single one!
and because I'm a dork, here's a dorky video of the door in action. AK2 loves this song, because it's about saving dogs. (Yes, we all know it's about addiction.) I hope I don't get sued.
I did lube the rollers after shooting the video. Door is super quiet now, better than expected for $50 in junkyard parts.
Oh no, youtube tells me my video is blocked in Russia because:
A copyright owner using Content ID has claimed some material in your video.
As a result, your video has been blocked in some countries. This means that your video is still up on YouTube, but people in some countries may not be able to watch it.
This is not a copyright strike. This claim does not affect your account status.
Video title: Ody power sliding door works again! No tech tips, just a door opening and closing.
Copyrighted content: Angel
Claimed by: SME, [Merlin] Nettwerk Records
Blocked countries: Russia
As seen in MonZora thread:
Ody got to park (mostly) inside for a few hours today. Rear pads were down to the wear indicators, but rotors weren't scored. Two pin boots are torn, naturally one per side LOL, so I'll get a pin boot kit and pull it apart next week. Pushed the old fluid out the bleed screws, let gravity do it's thing for a bit, and refilled with fresh DOT3.
Then oil and filter, and 3 qts ATF drain and fill. 246k and counting.
You'll need to log in to post.
