22R...learn me!

I've been wanting to do up my 22R in my 89 2WD Pickup and just wanted to ask you guys, figured some of you may know more than me

I've had a Solex/Mikuni 44mm sidedraft deal come up and wanted to get info about sidedrafts on this engine. Also, supposedly the redline is like 5,000 to 6,000 (technically doesn't have a redline but this is what I read). Driving around (I have a tach in it) I seem to be immediately having to shift. Just was curious on this, I want to get a cam and there's a couple that go up to up to 5,500-7,000, should I get the reworked head from LCE or will the stock hold up.

Any info is well appreciated!

Swap out for a 2jz?

well that is always an option but as of now, not the option I want tempting me haha

1UZFE then?

you aren't helping!

NickF40 wrote: you aren't helping!

Sure we are. Embrace your inner enabler. Just embrace it with your whole body and you will be set free from the mere bonds of morality and everything simple.

Change the timing chain guide before it breaks

LC Engineering

I lusted after a built 20R when I was a poor teenager with my handed down 1980 Celica GT Liftback.

I can live vicariously through you

aussiesmg wrote: Change the timing chain guide before it breaks

+1. I assume it's already a carb motor? 22R-E and 22R have more differences than fuel injection. The easiest gains you will see will be from a cam and header (I think Doug Thorley made a good one). That said the 22R was never really intended to be a performance motor. You aren't going to make big power unless you feel like going turbo or spending absurd $$$ on a full rebuild.

The distantly related 18R-G, on the other hand...

If I could find an 18RG for cheap....I LOVE that motor

yeah it's carbed and I know it's not a real performer but I just want to have fun with it and have SOME power. I'm 21 and broke lol

I got a Thorley header on it and took off the emissions air pump bs but that's why I was thinking the stage 3 head from LCE, that comes with my choice of the stage 3 cam and new top end bits for under $500

I remember seeing a 7mgte powered pick up on the interwebs a while back. Cheaper tha an 2jz... just sayin...

Metal timing chain guide. After that, how much power are you looking for? The head and cam from LCE sounds like a pretty good deal. The carb of choice would be the Weber downdraft DGV. I doubt the side drafts would give you any performance advantage over that. Unless you just want to look cool.

How hard is it to seal up these engines? I've got a 22R-E that's leaking. Looks like the front and rear mains. Any other sources of oil leaks besides those two, the valve cover gasket and the oil pan?

In reply to NickF40:

I did forged parts, 22r block with 20 heads and DCOE carbs and barely got 200hp. The torque was great though. I do think I could have spent my money better, but was staying under the SCCA solo rules. If I had to do it again I would do turbo or a more modern engine. The car hauled butt though...for what it was 13.9 quarter. Not impressive but if you think originally the car ran 18 second quarter. Link to video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=133VBCfCpik

redline was 7500rpms, but power started to drop at 6000rpms (300 degree cam)

Well, from what I've been told, cam and some porting on the head make a huge difference. Neither are legal in Street Prepared, so I haven't done them. Not sure if you need the LC head or if you want to just get your head ported at a good machine shop. I have bought quite a few things from LC and they do seem to know their stuff, so probably would work out just fine.

Biggest difference in feel for me was the Fidenza 9lb flywheel.

I built one many years ago and saw similar results. Low 14s in the quarter mile in a badly traction-limited shaver nose Corona. Mine was actually a 20r block but 22r pistons. I used the round port 20r head with the 22r valves and crower springs/retainers. The head and block were both milled heavily to get compression up, and i ported the head to match the new valves and the intake manifold. My cam grinder made me a short duration high lift cam which was hard on the valve train but made good torque. With the Mikuni/solex PH44s it revved to 7000 but the cam was done by 6500 or so. There was probably more power in it but I could not afford a custom header and the stock cast iron manifold barely fit in my chassis. Eventually I wrecked the car by being stupid on the street but I sold the motor to a guy with a Celica. Not the most kick-ass motor ever but lots of torque and fun for the street.

Appleseed wrote: How hard is it to seal up these engines? I've got a 22R-E that's leaking. Looks like the front and rear mains. Any other sources of oil leaks besides those two, the valve cover gasket and the oil pan?

The o-ring between the oil pump and front cover is a common spot. Make sure your timing chain guides are good. I had to dig through about 10 covers before I found one that had not been eaten by the chain.

In reply to Robert Bowen:

Plus one on the chain guides. The chain will eat through the if guides are bad. (metal guides and dual row chain is a must)

Either I buy the LCE head or go to a 20R head but I've read that the later 22R's need something else to fully switch the 20R over and I really don't feel like having to get another engine when the one I have in it now is perfectly fine. I do know the big advantage, for the timing chains, is a double row chain instead of a single. I'm really just going for cool looking, sounding, and fun as hell to drive so I don't care if it makes not mch power lol. This is a street driven truck, I may take it to a few race or drift events though.

Vaz, I've been watching that video a lot! I've seen that a month ago, LOVE the sound. I'm hoping I can get my truck to sound like that, that's why I was glad I came across your Celica because all other 22R exhaust videos suck and sound awful

In my experience, the front main seal is a common culprit. I got to where I could do one of those in about 2 hours total, including cleaning up the harmonic balancer pulley on the lathe. Oil pan leaks: Ultra Black on the gasket. Cam cover will occasionally start leaking a little. Tighten it down a bit and/or put a little Ultra Black on it.

I've got a torquer cam in mine right now, plus Megasquirt. Runs out of breath around 4500-5K RPM, but, IT'S A TRUCK. Pulls fantastic off the line, for a RN Truck.

I've not done a 20R head swap, but from what I've read (Net Wisdom, take it at your own risk,) you need all the front pieces of the 20R motor, not just the head.

In reply to Dr. Hess:

WOW!. I remember Doc Hess from my Toyota Mods (on Chris Myers list) days. He is a Toy 20v 4age legend...anyway. 20r front parts? I don't remember what I used since I was mixing and matching between 22r and 20r do miuch. I do know I used the dual row chan stuff (and guides) from the 22r. Here is a pic of the the engine. I always loved the look:

3tc swap!

Yeah, that's me. Been a while. Chris still has cyberauto.com going. I buy from him when I need something he carries/drop ships for, like Koni, Magnecor, etc.

I took a 20 valve in to work Friday. This one in my AE92:

The one I had in the MR2 is now in the Locost, still a Work In Progress. This is my current Toyota Powered Ride:

In reply to Dr. Hess:

Nice Lotus

Ben, that would be nice! I wish I would have taken the one out of my 80 Corolla lol