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Powar
Powar GRM+ Memberand Dork
11/14/11 9:35 a.m.

That is a sweet car. I bought a nice 125k mile MX-3 GS last Wednesday. It was totalled Friday night, unfortunately, but hey... it was a fun two days and it'll be a great parts car.

dansxr2
dansxr2 HalfDork
11/15/11 7:36 p.m.

damn... i bet you had parts i coulda used.... :/

Powar
Powar GRM+ Memberand Dork
11/16/11 3:37 p.m.

Oh... I still have the car and it WILL be bought back and parted out when this insurance mess is all over.

dansxr2
dansxr2 HalfDork
11/16/11 4:36 p.m.

Help brother out??? I need some small things... I need the duct from the blower to the driver defrost vent, I'll take that rear spoiler too ;)

I'm so damn excited!!! I removed that bundle of MSD crap and guess what.... that thing SCREAMS!!!! I guess it was fighting the factory ECU timing.... God why didn't I do this earlier??? I left the MSD Blaster 2 Coil but will be selling the rest to recoupe $ for Poly Bushings.

92CelicaHalfTrac
92CelicaHalfTrac SuperDork
11/16/11 4:39 p.m.

Don't put poly bushings in the rear.

dansxr2
dansxr2 HalfDork
11/16/11 5:08 p.m.

Why ???

92CelicaHalfTrac
92CelicaHalfTrac SuperDork
11/16/11 5:10 p.m.

They bind.

There's a passive rear steer setup built into the back of non-4ws Mazda GD chassis cars, and if you have MX6 stuff back there, it needs to stay rubber.

Poly is fine for the front, but rubber stays in the back. You can put poly in the trailing links if you want, but... meh.

As long as your bushings aren't ripped in the back, leave them alone. Otherwise, it might be easier to just buy new arm assemblies.

92CelicaHalfTrac
92CelicaHalfTrac SuperDork
11/16/11 5:18 p.m.

Here's more info:

http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-mx6-other-performance/236283-thoughts-rear-suspension-bushings-gavin-i-think-you-should-take-look.html

I remember this now. Honestly, i wouldn't bother with poly anywhere using the MX6 parts.

Front control arm assemblies complete with bushings and balljoints can be had for $60/pop through RockAuto.

Makes the job easy, and i do remember the bushings being quite solid/hard.

dansxr2
dansxr2 HalfDork
11/16/11 8:35 p.m.

Just MX-6 Struts and Hubs are on it. The Control Arms are MX-3 as are the Balljoints in the front. Rear I'm not honestly 100% on but I'll snap a pic of it for you tomorrow.

92CelicaHalfTrac
92CelicaHalfTrac SuperDork
11/17/11 9:13 a.m.
dansxr2 wrote: Just MX-6 Struts and Hubs are on it. The Control Arms are MX-3 as are the Balljoints in the front. Rear I'm not honestly 100% on but I'll snap a pic of it for you tomorrow.

Ohhhhhh...

So you're using MX6 springs/struts, MX3 strut mounts, MX6 hubs, and MX3 control arms?

I thought for some reason this thing was a GD car entirely underneath.

Carry on with the poly. The Mazda TTL setup doesn't have the passive rear steer trickery.

pres589
pres589 Dork
11/17/11 11:17 a.m.

I thought that the GD chassis used the TTL rear suspension. I'd go rubber anyway though so whatever.

What MSD stuff was on the car? A 6AL might be worth something but anything that touches the timing curve on the F2T is probably not something you want on there. An EDIS or similar swap with a crank trigger might be worth it but otherwise I'd run stock ignition with good tune-up parts.

92CelicaHalfTrac
92CelicaHalfTrac SuperDork
11/17/11 11:19 a.m.
pres589 wrote: I thought that the GD chassis used the TTL rear suspension. I'd go rubber anyway though so whatever. What MSD stuff was on the car? A 6AL might be worth something but anything that touches the timing curve on the F2T is probably not something you want on there. An EDIS or similar swap with a crank trigger might be worth it but otherwise I'd run stock ignition with good tune-up parts.

It was a BTM. So it was taking out even MORE timing than the factory ridiculously conservative map.

The GD is a modified TTL rear i believe. Creates toe-in on the loaded corner for stability, and likes to bind with anything other than stock bushings.

I don't believe the MX3 is the same way.

dansxr2
dansxr2 HalfDork
11/17/11 5:33 p.m.

The MX- Missle has MX-6 GT Spindles, Brakes, Struts with MX-6 GT Strut mounts(pillowball front, aluminimun rear) MX-3 Control arms and balljoints. :)

Powar
Powar GRM+ Memberand Dork
11/23/11 12:56 p.m.

Dan- I'll make a post when I'm going to part the car. Hopefully I can help you out when the time comes and the insurance is settled.

stevesei46
stevesei46
11/24/11 10:09 p.m.

Is there a writeup on your MX-6 pieces on an MX-3. The MX-3 site never heard of this, so far as I can tell. Bigger brakes and 5 lug hubs have a real appeal. Also MX-6 springs, etc.

dansxr2
dansxr2 HalfDork
12/15/11 2:21 a.m.

So finally after fighting with the manifold on the MX-Missle I splurged and bought a new manifold for it... well while the turbo was off I had it layin in the floor and I noticed oil comin out of it :-/ I honestly am not 100 percent what it is as I got it off a guy on a Capri forum who claimed it was a Corksport hybrid dual ball bearing turbo it fit the Capri manifold but wouldn't let the manifold bolt to the block.... so I'm a little unsure what to do now. Corksport says the turbo is a Garrett GT25 Center Cartridge wit

h VJ11 turbine, RX-7 Turbo II Compressor :ousing

dansxr2
dansxr2 HalfDork
12/15/11 2:37 a.m.

Machined to fit a T-3 Style Compressor Wheel. I can get a new Cartridge for 615 bux... but can I get equal or better power from something else for equal of less cost? Reliability is a prioriety as this is a fun street/autoX car. Input and ideas please...

92CelicaHalfTrac
92CelicaHalfTrac SuperDork
12/15/11 6:23 a.m.
dansxr2 wrote: Machined to fit a T-3 Style Compressor Wheel. I can get a new Cartridge for 615 bux... but can I get equal or better power from something else for equal of less cost? Reliability is a prioriety as this is a fun street/autoX car. Input and ideas please...

T3 adapter on stock manifold + T3/T4 turbo of your choice.

I'm not a fan of using these turbos cobbled together from 20+ year old parts/tech. (Do as i say, not as i do. )

There's some discussion going on now about making hybrids using Volvo turbos on mx6.com at the moment.

However, i'm of the firm belief that the housings on the IHI RBH5 frame is just too small, period. Doesn't matter what wheel you stuff in there, you're going to have the stupid off-idle spool, near unmanageable levels of midrange torque, and no top end.

A T3/T4 50trim would be the bee's knees for an autox situation as long as you keep the boost to a sane level. Quick spool, but no so quick you're ripping your tires off, and it'll make power all the way up.

dansxr2
dansxr2 HalfDork
12/15/11 8:45 p.m.

I did find a the Probe has a Chipped ECU... Manual Boost Controller.... and K&N Drop in filter in it!!! Ha Ha!

Vigo
Vigo SuperDork
12/15/11 10:13 p.m.

Journal bearing turbo?

Why not just get a t25 rebuild kit and do it yourself? Ive done this to two turbos so far, both have been fine but dont get DD'd so the mileage put on them is not impressive.

dansxr2
dansxr2 HalfDork
12/16/11 2:55 p.m.

Its a Ball Bearing turbo, and they only offer a new CRHA assembley :/

dansxr2
dansxr2 HalfDork
12/19/11 7:09 a.m.

Well I hit a small problem... the transmission decided it doesn't like it in there and decided to go MIA. Its stuck in gear and will not go into or out of any gear. Replacement found (not out of Probe) and it'll be back on the road in the spring... I'll post updates

92CelicaHalfTrac
92CelicaHalfTrac SuperDork
12/19/11 8:20 a.m.

Pop the 5th gear cover off. You've got a blown shift fork. I doubt you've got magic sparkly fluid or anything. You can fix it with it still installed in the car.

While you're in there, make sure it's an H-type trans.

dansxr2
dansxr2 HalfDork
12/19/11 9:18 a.m.

I'm 100% its an H-Type trans :-) glad it is possibly easy fix too!

akamcfly
akamcfly Reader
12/19/11 9:20 a.m.
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: Pop the 5th gear cover off. You've got a blown shift fork.

Could be the little "H" pattern guide has cracked too. I had that happen in my festiva - stuck in 3rd gear 600km from home.

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