IMS Bandsaw?

Hey guys, hoping the hive mind has some help for me here. 
 

I recently got an IMS bandsaw. Model: WBS-14-1

I need to figure out what length of blade it takes and so far I haven't been able to fine anything online, and it's currently apart so I can't really sting measure it tonight. 
 

If you could post a picture of the whole thing I could tell you for sure but...

Most 14" bandsaws are a copy of the old Delta / Rockwell 14" so they take the same 93-1/2" blades.

Delta, Jet, General, Rong-Fu, Steel City, King, all make the same 14" bandsaw and parts will usually interchange between them.

If it has a riser block in it to increase it's capacity, it will need a longer, 105" blade.

In reply to ShawnG :

I don't have a pic of it complete because I tore it down for transport. I'll see what I can get tomorrow and compare to your numbers. Thanks!

If it looks like this, then that's the one I'm talking about.

You can see where the frame casting bolts together at the back of the throat. A 6" riser block can be installed there to give you more resaw capability and will need the longer blade.

If it's not like that one, release the blade tensioner and wrap a string around the blade path where the blade would go. Mark where the ends of the string meet with a sharpie and measure between the marks to get your length.

While I'm at it, any recommendations for metal cutting blades for these?

In reply to ShawnG :

Mine does look like that. I'll double check with a string tomorrow to be sure, but seems like the 93.5" should be what I need. 

Nevermind, here's another one:

Yup, that's the standard, offshore-made 14" bandsaw, I should be right on the length.

Company I used to work for had their own version sold under the Maxwood name.

Good news is, you can upgrade those to roller bearing blade guides, urethane tires and all the good stuff if you want to make it a really good, offshore bandsaw.

If you want to cut metal, you'll have to check and see if it has triple pulleys on the motor and driven shaft. That will let it slow down enough to cut metal. 

If it only has single speed pulleys, you'll have to swap them out and play around with the ratios to get the speed down low enough.

I've got a similar one. 
 

Note on those... They are not designed for metal. They are designed for wood. The speed is normally setup too fast, but more importantly, the waste chips and shards fall into an enclosed housing.  This is a potential fire hazard. The shavings that comes from cutting metal are hot enough to potentially start a fire.  Especially if you ever cut wood on it (and have sawdust in the bottom).
 

Slow it down with a pulley swap, then remove the lower blade cover (so it's no longer an enclosed area).  Keep it clean.  You can cut metal with it, but need to be a bit more careful.

...I'd also consider the rubber tires. 

Thanks for the tips. I knew metal could be done, but knowing the tweaks helps a lot. I figured speed might be an issue. It just has single pulleys, so I'll have to see about swapping them out. 
 

Lower cover removal and cleaning for fire prevention is very good to know. 

The average wood cutting 14" import bandsaw runs the blade at over 2500 feet per minute. You need to slow it down to (depending on your bi-metal blade choice) at least 290SFM. I'd suggest running a bit slower for extended blade life and the ability to cut more than just mild steel. 

I have my metal cutting bandsaw set at 200 feet per minute as a good compromise. 

I guess I am saying. Calculate the speed, you might not be able to get there with just pulley swaps. You might need a jackshaft to slow it down enough.

Try this link to get an idea http://vintagemachinery.org/math/sfpm.aspx

I really wanted a bandsaw that could do both wood and metal. And with electronic motor control so much better today than it was in 1914 you'd think you wouldn't even need gears or pulleys, just a motor that could run at different speeds.

Alas, I didn't find a good solution, and instead settled on a portaband that I built a stand/table for. My main use is for cutting metal though. I've got plenty of other saws for wood when needed. 

"Wear Eye Prection"

The PortaBand is light years ahead of any modified wood bandsaw for cutting metal.

Heh, from the title I came in here expecting a creative solution to the 996/boxster intermediate shaft bearing problem. :)

codrus (Forum Supporter) said:

Heh, from the title I came in here expecting a creative solution to the 996/boxster intermediate shaft bearing problem. :)

My first thought as well.  I read the title and was left thinking "how the heck do you replace an IMS bearing with a bandsaw!?"

If all you're cutting is aluminum it will be fine. Steel need the much lower speed.

Thanks all. I added some fresh hardware to replace missing hardware and got it all assembled last night. One of the tabs on the table mounts is broken, but it seems to work anyway. It could also use new guide bearings.

I calculated out the SFPM to be 2,633. 

Since it's going to take some tweaks to work well on steel and I knew my buddy was interested in a wood saw I asked if he'd be interested in it, so it looks like it'll be going over to him. Thanks for all the great input everyone!

In reply to AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) :

That sounds like a wise decision. Take a look at PorraBands. 

In reply to SVreX (Forum Supporter) :

I actually got the HF portaband a while back. I made a bit of a table for it that clamps in the vice, but I'm not totally happy with how it turned out. I also need to get a foot pedal for it.  

The cheap Harbor Freight horizontal metal cutting bandsaw comes with a table to use as a vertical band saw. It works fairly well with a decent blade. It has the added advantage of being a decent cut off saw as well. 

I literally just finished mounting my HF porta-band to a workbench Sunday (I used it for a long time just clamped in a vice). I think it came out really nice. I can still reach the blade speed adjuster from above, and the light switch below the saw turns it on and off. If you want more details of how and what I did I'd be happy to share. Oh, and the saw just lifts out. I still have the workbench top I removed, so if I need the bench back in full I can lift the saw out and set the bench back down. 

In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :

Nice! I like that!

I am planning to build some rolling work benches soon, so I may have to include something similar. I like the light switch for that too.

In reply to Toyman01 (Moderately Supportive Dude) :

My problem with the horizontal bandsaws is they take up an enormous footprint.

Not the saw itself, but the space needed for infeed/outfeed for pieces of any length.

I used to have one.  Don't miss it at all.

AFAIAC, they are great for large shops that do a LOT of cutting to length, but that's about it.