Mr_Asa
Mr_Asa GRM+ Memberand HalfDork
2/25/20 8:33 a.m.

Good morning! How are you guys doing today?  The pics below are how I am doing!

There's something weird going on where the truck dies on me taking off from a light.  I have to crank with the throttle pinned until it chugs through enough of whatever is going on to clear it, then it runs great.

This time when I did that, I put it in gear and the engine jumped and ate the radiator.

My 50 year old car should not be more reliable than a truck half its age.

Edit: '93 F150, 4.9L

 

jstein77
jstein77 UberDork
2/25/20 8:47 a.m.

If it moved enough to hit the radiator, I would suspect that the motor mounts have failed.

As far as the stalling issue at lights, we probably need more information to diagnose that.  Vacuum leak, ignition issues, fuel starvation?  Fouling plugs from blowby?  Is there smoke from the exhaust?  Throwing any codes?

Mr_Asa
Mr_Asa GRM+ Memberand HalfDork
2/25/20 9:13 a.m.

In reply to jstein77 :

Codes: 118, 179, 542, and 628

Mounts are one year old and I haven't seen/felt anything to suggest they'd be borked already, but I also haven't purposefully looked

As for the rest, I was stuck here https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/diagnostic-help/162658/page1/ until recently.  I finally got a good compression tester and a good leakdown tester, now I just need to find a source of compressed air.  I didn't have any of those codes above when I had this code

Vigo
Vigo MegaDork
2/25/20 10:25 a.m.

The major bog is a mismatch of fuel to air. You're controlling air with your foot (which is working) so it's a fuel problem and fuel is controlled by computer.  Major fuel inputs are your load sensor (MAP or MAF, dunno which you have) and a big temperature compensation from your coolant temp sensor. You said the issue changes as the car warms up. That's more likely to be tied to the coolant temp sensor than the load sensors. You also have two codes that correlate, a coolant temp sensor open circuit code and a fuel system rich code. Coolant temp sensor open circuit reads as super cold = super rich, so that's making sense. I would inspect your coolant temp sensor wiring, and if you find nothing wrong with it just replace the sensor since they are so cheap. You could verify the resistance Vs temp correlation with a multimeter and a chart if that seems easier to you than the ~$15 sensor replacement.  If you find no issue there I would move on to the MAF/MAP.

bearmtnmartin
bearmtnmartin GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
2/25/20 10:27 a.m.

Maybe your MAP/MAF is gummed up. That is a lot of oil floating around.

NoBrakesRacing
NoBrakesRacing Reader
2/25/20 10:38 a.m.

If your engine is able to move that much, how is the block's ground strap?

As the engine moves accelerating from a stop it may be loosing ground and shutting off. Only reigniting as it makes contact again when the engine goes back to normal. 

Just a theory. 

Vigo has a much better one. 

Good luck

JBinMD
JBinMD New Reader
2/25/20 10:46 a.m.

Year, brand, model, engine of truck?  Would probably help to know that.  And are you sure it was the engine that moved and not the radiator?  It probably wasn't but I've heard of someone who didn't have his radiator mounted and secured correctly and chugging made his radiator flop into his fan and then spring back into place from the hose.  

Vigo
Vigo MegaDork
2/25/20 10:50 a.m.

Just a theory. 

Vigo has a much better one. 

 

I dunno, I had a loose ground for all my injectors once that sent me into fits just like this, so maybe YOUR idea is better! I hadn't thought of that.

Stefan
Stefan GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
2/25/20 11:59 a.m.

New parts do not always equal good parts.

Parts store motor mounts in particular seem prone to early failure compared to OE units.

While you're in there poking around on the cooling sensor/grounds, etc. put a large pipe or pry bar between the block and the frame and see if you can move it quite a bit, if possible watch the mount for separation (or have a helper push/pull while you look, etc.)

Don't discount your transmission mount(s) either, they can cause some extra floppiness that can impact the life of the motor mounts.

Mr_Asa
Mr_Asa GRM+ Memberand HalfDork
2/25/20 12:45 p.m.

Ok, time to check MAP sensor, and both coolant sensors.  

In reply to bearmtnmartin :

Its all coolant, actually.  That little stream hit the fan and threw it everywhere.  Still worth checking.

In reply to NoBrakesRacing :

Ford had a bad habit of routing their ground cables the way that ran the best, not the way that made the best ground.  I redid it a while back and as a side result it can take a lot of movement.  I'll check it, though.

In reply to Stefan :

I don't like how these motor mounts are designed in general.  Its been far down the list, but I've been thinking of making custom ones that actually limit movement even if the rubber is broken.

Mr_Asa
Mr_Asa GRM+ Memberand HalfDork
2/25/20 7:05 p.m.

And of course, 10 minutes after I get my new radiator (had to wait for my wife to get home for her car) it starts to pour down rain.  Cold rain.  Big ass drops.

FML

Mr_Asa
Mr_Asa GRM+ Memberand HalfDork
2/25/20 9:42 p.m.

Installing the radiator in the rain meant I didn't inspect it closely.  This meant that I missed a hole in the radiator.  This also means that most of my coolant has drained out of the truck and I'll have to go buy more.

I'm tired.

jfryjfry
jfryjfry Dork
2/26/20 2:08 a.m.

My how when it rains it pours.

 

 

what a bummer.....   take heart - some day, many MANY years from now maybe you'll look back on this and maybe think about cracking a tiny, little smile. 
 

toss an ezup over the truck if it's raining.  I've had to do that a few times

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