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racermr2 None
5/31/14 3:20 p.m.

DOD: I've read this article at least 5 times. What about your thoughts on correcting the horrible bump steer on the MK1 MR2? Specifically, some things I've determined is that the inner pivot point of the front tie rod is further in towards the center of the chassis than the LCA inner pivot point. This results in a terrible bump steer curve. The steering rack, if lowered, makes the bump steer worse!! I've tried RCAs, changed the stock tie rod ends to rod ends, adjusted the tie rod height above and below the steering arm, to no avail. My road racer is set up to have 5.5 inches of ground clearance( measured at the rocker panel for a consistent datum point). This ride height has given the least camber change for 1.5 inches of suspension travel in bump and droop. I've used Hoosier R6s, Kumho Sports Car DOT, Goodyear DOT, thinking grip was the problem, to no avail. Lastly, my research on various web sites uncovered that one problem could be that the MK1 MR2's inner tie rod pivot point is not in line with the LCA inner pivot point. Is this CORRECT? Please provide your thoughts and experience with the MK1.

iceracer PowerDork
5/31/14 7:13 p.m.

When I was running my 2000 ZX2SR as a DD and a track car, I did the following. It had the Eihback springs which were slightly stiffer and lower and a slight rear bias. Front alignment for track was 2.5 degrees negative camber. 0 toe. Nearly doubled caster with offset bushings. rear was left stock. The stock rear bar was 13mm. I went to 19mm and then 22mm.

The front tire pressures were nearly even across the tread. The car could be throttle steered in a high speed corner. So what has been said above really works.

noddaz GRM+ Memberand Dork
5/31/14 7:46 p.m.

Ok... I have read over this. And I will read it a few more times. Some of it might even sink in.. There is a lot of information here. Thank you.

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