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OHSCrifle
OHSCrifle GRM+ Memberand UltraDork
2/13/22 8:21 p.m.

Always like it when I see a post I started 3 years ago come back.
 

I ended up getting a Milwaukee M12 stubby 1/2" impact (edit: with a red lithium 6.0 battery). It's been terrific for periodic use on things like tire rotations and other random bolt unsticking. No Honda crank bolts required in my garage so I didn't make the leap to M18. 

mherbert4701
mherbert4701 New Reader
9/20/22 11:04 a.m.

So it seems from reading this thread a Milwaukee M12 stubby 1/2" impact , cordless, lithium battery is the ideal for tire swap outs at track time or tire rotations. 

OHSCrifle
OHSCrifle GRM+ Memberand UltraDork
9/20/22 12:05 p.m.
mherbert4701 said:

So it seems from reading this thread a Milwaukee M12 stubby 1/2" impact , cordless, lithium battery is the ideal for tire swap outs at track time or tire rotations. 

If you already own M18 pieces, I would get the M18.

I didn't yet own any M18 but I own a bunch of M12 so I stayed with M12 for the stubby impact. M12 will definitely turn car lug nuts just fine with the big battery. 

SV reX
SV reX MegaDork
9/20/22 12:31 p.m.

It's never about the tool. It's about the battery universe you are living in. 
 

Most manufacturers have competent tools. Especially if you are looking at 1/2" impact. 
 

But it's REALLY annoying to have to maintain many different brands of batteries, chargers, etc. 
 

When you begin buying cordless, buy into the entire product line. Commit to a brand. Then stick with it. 
 

You'll thank me. 
 

The M18 is the king of the hill. But the price to stay in that universe is very high. DeWalt is quite satisfactory for the vast majority of people (including most professionals I know). I use DeWalt. 
 

Forget 3/8" for lug nuts. 

Toyman!
Toyman! GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
9/20/22 1:18 p.m.

In reply to mherbert4701 :

I removed and reinstalled all the lug nuts on an F250 Super Duty yesterday with a Milwaukee M12 Stubby 1/2" impact. On occasion, you will come across a lug that it won't turn, but that is seldom and usually due to improper torque when the lug was installed. I haven't used my air impact since I bought it.

 

Dusterbd13-michael
Dusterbd13-michael MegaDork
9/20/22 3:07 p.m.

I upgraded to the ryobi system this past year. Their 1/2 one+hp impact turned off a rusted, straked axle nut in the junkyard without complaint. Rattled the bolt for a few seconds, then started turning. 

Im a believer. 

hunter47
hunter47 Reader
9/20/22 3:24 p.m.

In reply to SV reX :

Forget 3/8" for lug nuts? My M18 3/8" stubby begs to differ. Has been spinning my lug nuts for well over a year with no issues. 

RacetruckRon
RacetruckRon GRM+ Memberand Dork
9/20/22 3:32 p.m.

In reply to SV reX :

Is that because of a lack of large enough 3/8" sockets or a Dewalt problem? 

bobzilla
bobzilla MegaDork
9/20/22 4:02 p.m.

I've had my DeWalt 20V for years now. The thing is a beast. In fact we made the switch to all dewalt cordless things now. 

SV reX
SV reX MegaDork
9/20/22 5:39 p.m.
hunter47 said:

In reply to SV reX :

Forget 3/8" for lug nuts? My M18 3/8" stubby begs to differ. Has been spinning my lug nuts for well over a year with no issues. 

Because the 1/2" is the tool that is designed for that job. 
 

Are there some 3/8 that can do it?  Yes. Sometimes. Just like you can sometimes use a 3/8" ratchet wrench when you should have picked up a 1/2" ratchet.

If the primary need is removing lugs, a 1/2" is the tool for the job. And honestly, almost any name brand 1/2" ratchet will do the job.
 

The M18 is a pricey solution.  I'm glad to hear your endorsement of it, but I won't be buying one. Because I understand the importance of buying into the entire universe of a battery system. And the M18 system is simply too expensive for me. 

Floating Doc (Forum Supporter)
Floating Doc (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
9/20/22 7:44 p.m.

20v DeWalt user here. I have the 1/2 inch impact, which hasn't met it's match yet in the four years I've had it. My compressor is only used for airing up tires since I bought the DeWalt. 

There was a single exception to that when Stampie and I were trying to get some bolts off of a bell housing and the DeWalt was too bulky to line up the tool. I had a craftsman air impact that I had received in my New Year's box that fit in the available space. I passed it along in the next year's box. 
 

I agree with sticking with the battery technology that you own. I would like to get a 3/8 inch ratchet (not an impact) for my DeWalt battery collection, but I think that if they make one, they only just released it. 

vozproto
vozproto New Reader
10/12/22 10:36 a.m.

I know you said "cordless" ... 

I have a full suite of cordless milwaukee tools and batteries. I've got a small impact driver that I use for smaller jobs and rarely need something bigger. But when I do, it is in my shop and not on the go. If I were to go cordless, I would recommend getting the one that you already have batteries for. If you dont have cordless tools yet... be sure to pick the brand that you would want to buy other stuff from. All the big boys (dewalt, makita, milwaukee etc) have one that puts down ~600ftlbs or more.

For me: The Milwaukee battery powered is nearly $300 @ 5.5 lbs (without the battery) and is rated to 750Ftlbs. (Insert Tim the toolman taylor grunt here) But this is always a product of how big and how powered up your battery is. And honestly, If I needed 750 ftlbs I'm more likely gonna cut it off anyhow.

Instead I went with the plug-in porter cable 1/2" for $80 rated @ 450 ftlbs. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07255QCN4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It is heavy, but it rarely gets used. When it comes out of the toolbox, I pull the power cable from the retractable spool, get the job done, and put it away. 

03Panther
03Panther PowerDork
10/12/22 12:44 p.m.

Another vote for "consider the entire battery system"

There are + and - to all of them.
 

Dewalt has done a better job of staying with a type within brand, but I never felt the quality was enough better to justify the cost. 

When porter cable 18v was kinda long in the tooth, I went with it, since the co. Insured customers they would still support the platform, even after they brought out a new line. Shortly after, the new platform came out, and they stopped supporting the 18v. angry

Still like their tools. Will NEVER buy their stuff again. 

03Panther
03Panther PowerDork
10/12/22 12:49 p.m.

Almost went with the red stuff; wish I had

Went with Kobalt, and am happy with it. I have not tried the compact 1/2, but use the big boy often. It is heavy, but despite being nowhere near as strong as my younger days, if I get to where I need two hands for that, I'm way to far gone to work on cars. cheeky

Dad was 89 when he went in a home. If he could have remembered how to use it, he coulda used it with one hand. So I'll prolly be alright. 

procainestart
procainestart SuperDork
10/12/22 9:24 p.m.

A heads-up that Milwaukee is having issues with a new variant of one of their 1/2-inch impacts. A YouTuber posted a video about failures; a lot of folks said they were having issues, too.

Milwaukee responded (this is posted in the top comment on a YT video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IL5nUiskNpw):

We have recently learned that a number of users are experiencing issues with their 2767-20 ½” High Torque Impact Wrench w/ Friction Ring, and quickly launched an in-depth investigation to understand the claims. Upon investigation, 2 distinct issues were uncovered: We recently implemented a new mechanical design in the model 2767-20. This new design is distinguished by “H96B” in the serial code. This new design has not held up to the Milwaukee name and will no longer be sold. Our developmental testing of this mechanism did not reveal the symptoms described by users, but the feedback is clear, and our decision to replace product is ultimately the right thing to do for them. We will continue to produce the original design that has been on the market for years, that is distinguished by “H96A” in the serial code. We will immediately stop production of the new design distinguished by “H96B” in the serial code. There are also variances in electrical tolerances that may cause some tools to “stutter”. This was exacerbated by the new mechanical design in 2767-20 inventory that is distinguished by “H96B” in the serial code. If users are experiencing an issue, they are encouraged to send their tool in for repair or replacement by utilizing our eService portal - http://bit.ly/2cwwBwJ. All products with the “H96B” distinction on the serial code will be replaced with “H96A”.

TL;DR: If you want a 2760-20, you want one with H96A, not H96B, in the serial number. If you have an H96B, ask them for an H96A.

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