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jh36
jh36 GRM+ Memberand Dork
11/15/21 7:58 p.m.

I've gone full circle. I spent 10 hours in the car today so I had some quality phone time. 
Scott at Fuel Safe was working to piece together a system for me that would allow me to run my dual pumps, current pin connector, room for the regulator (THAT'S what is sticking through the top), returnless system, vent, surge tank  and fill. In the end, it was getting pricey...they just don't make a stock cell that has or does that. Also, the largest size that would fit is a 12 gallon, compared to my current 15. So...we figured out what a complete new system and that was well north of the $1800 for the new bladder.  Then the price dropped when I made it clear I wanted to use my current parts. 
I'm going to put the old cell back together, lash it to a pallet and ship it to Oregon where they will make and install a new bladder, reinstall my parts and return ship it.  It should end up around $1300. Not cheap but I am going to roll the dice and move my mice. 
 

jh36
jh36 GRM+ Memberand Dork
11/20/21 7:49 a.m.

On test day, we were pretty excited to have the RacePak cl1 plugged into a legit obd2 port for full data mining ops. 

When we fired it up, it blinked green, connected to my phone, then shut down. Many times. 

Fresh batteries. Same. 

Turns out the unit is compatible with ‘08 and later obd2 ports. My rig is from around a 2001. Does anyone know a way to adapt these, or should I resign to picking up a signal from ignition?  I was looking forward to having more info. 

jh36
jh36 GRM+ Memberand Dork
11/22/21 8:44 p.m.
jh36 said:

On test day, we were pretty excited to have the RacePak cl1 plugged into a legit obd2 port for full data mining ops. 

When we fired it up, it blinked green, connected to my phone, then shut down. Many times. 

Fresh batteries. Same. 

Turns out the unit is compatible with ‘08 and later obd2 ports. My rig is from around a 2001. Does anyone know a way to adapt these, or should I resign to picking up a signal from ignition?  I was looking forward to having more info. 

This has been explored in a separate thread. The punchline is, the CAN port and OBD2 cable supplied with the cl-1 don't care to speak with each other. We will be splicing into the tach wire (along with my shift light) to get the data party started. It isn't the easy button for tons of data, but it should get us at least recording lap performance.  

jh36
jh36 GRM+ Memberand Dork
11/23/21 7:34 p.m.

I've made a dent in the wallet today with some purchases to keep me busy and hopefully get the car ready with some time to spare...the March event at VIR will be here before I know it.  Maybe some of this will show up before the weekend so I can get crackin'.

The bladder for the fuel cell is underway at Fuel Safe.  6 weeks eta

The quick change rear is getting pulled this weekend and heading to a local late model guru for a once over.  Everyone says the crazy sounds this thing makes is normal...I just want someone in the know to bless it so I can stop thinking about it.

A new water temp gauge and sending unit from Auto Meter.

Two mini NACA ducts.  Going on the roof for fresh air.  I'm still hunting for the perfect tiny scoop for them, but if I don't find it, I will enjoy fabricating a couple.  One will dump in front of my face.  The other I'm thinking will be for defogging.

Two 3.5"x9" ducts for shoving some more air into the radiator.  Possibly overkill, but August in the Mid Atlantic can get pretty soupy.  More Better.

Two new 3/4" Tilton brake masters.  The 1" currently on there is like pushing on a wall.  It's incredible pedal effort with very little response or feel.  It does not breed confidence for me.

Phil and Kim are on the hunt for a set of Hoosiers too....I don't think that's quite a done deal, but I am in good hands with them.

 

 

jh36
jh36 GRM+ Memberand Dork
11/26/21 3:09 p.m.

My FedEx guy swung by today. I'm confused by the micro naca ducts I bought. 
That is balanced out by my excitement over the brake masters and water temp gauge though. 

Ed Higginbotham
Ed Higginbotham UberDork
11/26/21 4:22 p.m.

What is that, a NACA duct for ants???

jh36
jh36 GRM+ Memberand Dork
11/26/21 4:43 p.m.

In reply to Ed Higginbotham :

I was truly shocked. I mean, it said small....

Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter)
Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
11/26/21 5:10 p.m.

In reply to jh36 :

That doesn't look 3.5"x9" as you mentioned above. Looks closer to 3.5"x6"?

DeadSkunk  (Warren)
DeadSkunk (Warren) UltimaDork
11/26/21 6:25 p.m.

"Two mini NACA ducts.  Going on the roof for fresh air.  I'm still hunting for the perfect tiny scoop for them, but if I don't find it, I will enjoy fabricating a couple.  One will dump in front of my face.  The other I'm thinking will be for defogging.

Two 3.5"x9" ducts for shoving some more air into the radiator.  Possibly overkill, but August in the Mid Atlantic can get pretty soupy.  More Better."

 

Shouldn't there be 4 NACA ducts, the two mini ducts pictured , plus two 3.5"x9" ducts, which seem to be missing?

 

jh36
jh36 GRM+ Memberand Dork
11/26/21 7:35 p.m.

In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :

You are correct. Good eye. The large ducts for the radiator were not in the box. I sometimes receive their deliveries a day or two apart...probably a drop ship situation. 

jh36
jh36 GRM+ Memberand Dork
11/26/21 7:37 p.m.

In reply to Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter) :

These things are minuscule. Maybe 3" on the long axis. If I ever build a 1/12 scale model of the car, I can use them. 
I obviously didn't read the fine print correctly. I'm not sure what these would normally be used for, but let me know if you have any ideas. 

twentyover
twentyover Dork
11/26/21 8:30 p.m.
jh36 said:

In reply to Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter) :

These things are minuscule. Maybe 3" on the long axis. If I ever build a 1/12 scale model of the car, I can use them. 
I obviously didn't read the fine print correctly. I'm not sure what these would normally be used for, but let me know if you have any ideas. 

Maybe an intake for a diff oil or trans oil cooler?

jh36
jh36 GRM+ Memberand Dork
11/26/21 9:01 p.m.

In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :

Looks like the large ducts are shipping directly from manufacture on 12/2. All seems to be well. 

jh36
jh36 GRM+ Memberand Dork
11/26/21 9:05 p.m.
twentyover said:

Maybe an intake for a diff oil or trans oil cooler?

I think they are too small for that. My oil cooler and diff coolers are pretty large. At the moment they are mounted on the rear in the area of the open rear frame. If I put in a flat floor on the rear at some point, I will need ducting, but I doubt these would be adequate. 

DeadSkunk  (Warren)
DeadSkunk (Warren) UltimaDork
11/27/21 8:28 a.m.

In reply to jh36 :

Tape one of the little vents into the side window of your street car and go for a drive to see how much air it actually flows. Might be surprised at what two of them would do for a face ventilator in the Camaro.

jh36
jh36 GRM+ Memberand Dork
11/27/21 8:57 a.m.

In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :
 

Good idea. And free. It would make the roof scoop smaller too.  

XenaFordPrincess
XenaFordPrincess New Reader
11/27/21 9:39 a.m.
jh36
jh36 GRM+ Memberand Dork
11/27/21 9:54 a.m.

In reply to XenaFordPrincess :

Looks like it.  I just bought a new helmet, but not with air intake. But that does bode well for it possibly working. 

jh36
jh36 GRM+ Memberand Dork
11/28/21 8:22 p.m.

I had a few hours to mess around in the shop today. The rear is disconnected from the chassis.  Just need another set of hands to snake it out of the frame and help load it in my truck. 
Hopefully I will be able to deliver the rear for inspection this week. I was hoping to go ahead and remove the rotors as i have some fresh ones and these are checked. Brakes are on the top of my list to improve over the break. 
But, I have not figured out how to get the rear brake rotors past the hub. Could be I need to remove the entire hub assembly. I haven't found any advice of YouTube or the web yet.  Searching. 

jh36
jh36 GRM+ Memberand Dork
11/28/21 8:35 p.m.

Today I received the large air ducts for the radiator. Once I get the rear out of the car, I will start plotting my moves to cut into the shroud. 

Asphalt_Gundam
Asphalt_Gundam Reader
11/30/21 1:12 p.m.

Some of those hubs are designed where the rotor bolts directly to them on the back side. Or has a hat that locates off the back side. Either way you most likely do need to remove the hub.

Blazer178
Blazer178 New Reader
11/30/21 5:36 p.m.

Yes you are right if they are wide 5 hubs the rotor comes off the back of them

 

HalfFast
HalfFast New Reader
11/30/21 5:46 p.m.

In reply to Blazer178 :

They are 5 on 5, but they do come off the back 

jh36
jh36 GRM+ Memberand Dork
11/30/21 6:29 p.m.

In reply to Blazer178 :

Thanks to you all...yes, I got the rotors off (mounted from the back) and the mounting disk also off but the hub is too large a diameter to slide them over.  HalfFast sent me an email on how to get the hubs off.  I was missing the obvious, but I think he has me on track now.  We got the rear out of the car and into the back of my truck.  Tomorrow after work I will drive it to a local Late Model wizard who will give the unit a once over and hopefully a clean bill of health for 2022.  Anyway...if he finds any issues, there's plenty of time to get it repaired.  I am REALLY trying to knock the 2022 prep work out early this year.  This is about as far along as I've ever been.  Generally, I am about to start building a car about right now!  

HalfFast
HalfFast New Reader
11/30/21 6:45 p.m.

In reply to jh36 :

I learned a lot the last 2 years with my late model, and you benefit from my mistakes :) 

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