In reply to TVR Scott :
Any day you can make it to the E36 M3ter under your own power is a good day!!!
In reply to TVR Scott :
Any day you can make it to the E36 M3ter under your own power is a good day!!!
TVR Scott said:In reply to Stampie :
Not a damn thing.
Except a drain reservoir full of blood and fluid.
not hot. not even a little.
In reply to TVR Scott :
Milk the whole "I just had my spine cut open!" as long as you can at home but push that PT hard to recover.
Little care package from the Motor City arrived today. It was less than ten pounds so I got to pick it up and open it right away.
Wait, Angry should be keeping those for his TR6 (just kidding). Going to a good cause, though. If the pitting bothers you, we could try powder coating one using Metal 2 Metal as filler. A nice satin black may look good.
Upright and under your own power, congratulations. After 2 spinal fusions, and a full shoulder replacement, I feel your pain. As Stampie stated, work hard at PT. It does make a difference, as well as an upbeat attitude. Careful with that lifting stuff.
On another note, nice mirrors. A little bling for the TVR helps keep motivation and your spirits high. Best of luck on your recovery, you have a lot of people pulling for you.
JoeTR6 said:Wait, Angry should be keeping those for his TR6. Going to a good cause, though. If the pitting bothers you, we could try powder coating one using Metal 2 Metal as filler. A nice satin black may look good.
Did I miss a memo? Angry has a TR6?
Also only the one is pitted. One has some small scratches and the other looks pretty nice. So those two should be pretty nice after polishing.
TVR Scott said:JoeTR6 said:Wait, Angry should be keeping those for his TR6. Assuming he gets one someday.
Did I miss a memo? Angry has a TR6?
your photo game is on point. fixed quote above. also, i still have the base gaskets. will get them out this week.
Sorry, I thought it would be more obvious that Angry doesn't have a TR6. That comment needed an emoticon.
Did a bit of messing around with the pedal-related hydraulics. Clutch and brake units shown here:
I did a quick Learn-Me thread on rebuilding these, and the wise men told me that I probably shouldn't. New ones are high quality and not expensive, and the rebuild process is tricky.
Only question was whether or not the clutch cylinder bore was scored. Answer: It is.
Cool. I'll order all new. Silly me thinking I could reuse old parts off this car.
Ditto what Joe said. I bought a new TRW clutch master when I first bought my 2500M. The piston would get stuck in the bore. I ended up using some of the new parts in the old cylinder body.
Glad to see you back at it!
In reply to TVR Scott :
There used to be a couple of rebuilding services where they'd sleeve your old master in stainless or bronze for less than new. I like the concept of upgrading those parts to make them more or less permanent.
Apple hydraulics and Joe Curto carburetor service.
The TRW stuff is pretty poor sometimes. White Post does brass and Stainless Steel Brakes in N.Y. did just that for me a long while back for the similar brake master from an Elan. Since they're sleeving it, the damage you do taking it apart doesn't mater.
I still have the TRW brake master that leaked somewhere. I'll dig it out tomorrow along with the clutch master. You are welcome to use those. The brake fluid reservoir, if it fits an original brake master, could be used with a sleeved rebuilt cylinder to give a nice result.
The TRW clutch master and slave cylinders have been fine on my TR6. Go figure.
Hmm. This created more questions.
For starters, I'm thinking of ordering a new Girling clutch-master from Pegasus. This is still cheaper than having Apple rebuild the old one, and I would expect the quality to be pretty high. Yes?
Sounds like the brake-master is trickier to find good new parts. I'm game to send the original off for rebuilding, if it means it's good forever.
I should check with Sports Car Craftsmen here in town. They might do this kind of thing.
Is there any kind of instruction manual on how to take apart the Lucas brake master? Am I supposed to take it all apart and send it that way, or leave it together?
In reply to TVR Scott :
Leave the master cylinder together for Stainless Steel Brakes and White Post. They must have a dedicated tool to re-install the snap ring in the middle without scratching the new bore. As for the Girling master cylinders at Pegasus, I strongly suspect they come off the same line as any you buy for this application. TRW acquired the Lucas and Girling brands about a decade ago. Seems like their quality has been dropping ever since, guess they got that too.
You may want to check White Post's website, but I believe they offer a lifetime warranty on their rebuilt cylinders. Maybe I should send my sleeved clutch master back for repairs. My memory is that they are not cheap, however.
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