docwyte said:
Pads that are actually somewhat pleasant on the street simply don't work on the track. Get a set of street pads and a set of track pads and swap them over. Hawk HPS/HP+ are street/auto-x pads, they won't hold up at the track and neither will any other pad that's in that same class.
For years I ran the Hawk DTC70's but that was on a 3000lb 500+ hp car. On the GTi I'd try the DTC60's. I also use PFC08's or 11's, which are great, just don't let the brake dust get wet if you like your wheels.
That's the plan. I was going to swap to a street/autoX pad (PFC Z rated) and then use a track only pad (Hawk DTC-60, PFC 8, Raybestos ST43 or Porterfield R-4). I was all set to buy the PFC 08s but they are about 2x what the other pads cost. It would be cheaper to buy another whole set (street + track) than to buy their track pads.
BoxheadTim said:
One thing I don't think we touched upon yet is - what pads are actually available for the Brembo BBK the OP has? After all we can recommend pads until the bovines make it back to the barn, but it's not useful if they're not available for this BBK.
These calipers were used on a few cars stock. I'm using the '11 Camaro LE1 when I look them up. That's how I found the PFC's at my local O'Reilly Auto Parts.
BoxheadTim said:
While I wouldn't track a car on HPS, I've run more than one car on HP+ on the track. IIRC TR even advertises them as track capable pads.
Doesn't mean that proper track pads aren't better, though.
HPS is good if you're just starting out and aren't yet going full track car. They're good enough to get you safely through an event and let you figure out if its for you.
docwyte said:
Pads that are actually somewhat pleasant on the street simply don't work on the track. Get a set of street pads and a set of track pads and swap them over. Hawk HPS/HP+ are street/auto-x pads, they won't hold up at the track and neither will any other pad that's in that same class.
For years I ran the Hawk DTC70's but that was on a 3000lb 500+ hp car. On the GTi I'd try the DTC60's. I also use PFC08's or 11's, which are great, just don't let the brake dust get wet if you like your wheels.
I've done several weekends with HPS and HP+ pads and they definitely hold up just fine on the track for beginners and intermediate drivers and track day events. They're accessible and affordable and easier to learn with than something like a DTC that has to be hot to even work, those are pads to grow into when something like an HP+ just isn't cutting it anymore.
I spent 30 minutes on the phone with a tech rep from Brembo this morning. I learned a few things.
1. Their recommendation was to stick with the 1 piece rotors. Even though the 2 piece rotors cool faster the the 1 piece rotors are 7.5mm thick vs. 5.5mm on the 2 piece rotors at the friction surface (~35% more iron to soak up the heat).
2. FM-1000 pads will wear at an accelerated rate once they are over their operating range but shouldn't fade until they are WAY over their operating range.
I probably made a couple mistakes.
3. The pads should have been replaced before the event as their was about 50% of the friction material left. That left less mass to soak up heat.
4. Since I came in hot and parked pretty quick the already overheated pads probably heat soaked one spot on the rotors while the rest of the rotor was able to cool down. That's likely why they warped. I should do a full cool down lap and keep rolling for a couple minutes in the pits to allow the pads to cool before they can soak the rotor.
Next, I called Porterfield and spoke to Ken about brake pads. He recommended their R4 pads. They have a wide temperature range and can be driven on the street. They are also compatible with the Z Rated PFC pads I already have. Ken also said that the Z rated pads are a great street/AutoX pad so I'll keep running those for DD.
I've also been looking at the brake cooling. As Error404 stated there really isn't room for a full duct setup. The TT-RS colling ducts I currently have are just a paddle that sits at 90 degrees to the airflow. I can't imagine that they provide a ton of cooling in that configuration. I was looking at them over the weekend and realized that I could use a different hole in the arm to mount them canted forward about 25 degrees. That should help a bit. I also ordered a set of the GT3 ducts. They are more of a scoop design and hang down into the airflow more than the TT-RS ducts do.
This morning I ordered a new set of slotted rotors, a set of Porterfield R4 pads and a set of the GT3 brake ducts. I should have these in time for my next track day on the 14th. Unfortunately it looks like it's going to be tight to get the GT3 ducts in time.
Thanks to everyone who replied. I'll let you know how this all works out.
Thanks for the update, and do keep us posted.
Honestly, I have NEVER had any luck mixing pad compounds. I run centric 25 dollar rotors and DTC 60 pads on my race car and never have issues.
Please buy a set of cheap front rotors to use with your dedicated track pads to prevent bedding issues otherwise you will be back here again after your next event IMO...
In reply to Olemiss540 :
But the beauty of having fixed calipers is you don't have to disassemble everything to swap pads, just pop a clip or two.
I mean, I do get what you're saying, don't get me wrong.
Olemiss540 said:
Honestly, I have NEVER had any luck mixing pad compounds. I run centric 25 dollar rotors and DTC 60 pads on my race car and never have issues.
Please buy a set of cheap front rotors to use with your dedicated track pads to prevent bedding issues otherwise you will be back here again after your next event IMO...
I would if they were actually cheap. These Brembo rotors are $175 each though. I trust Porterfield knows their business.
It sounds like you're on the right path, but I'll toss another vote in for Carbotech brake pads. Folks at CTbrakes.com have always been great to work with.
Another vote for Carbotech . . . or G-loc if they make pads for the GTi. XP-8 or R8, respectively. I don't think you need the next step up (to 10's) yet, but even the 10's are good enough when cold for most street duty.
Bite is more like HP+ but with higher temperature capability. Rotor wear rates more like HPS.
Norm
I'll keep CarboTech in mind. I'm only planning on running 4-5 events this year so it might be a while before I'm looking into new pads.
