In reply to java230 :
I thought the cream color looked pretty good, TBH.
Might be a bit tricky to color match, but that's not really a big deal.
In reply to java230 :
I thought the cream color looked pretty good, TBH.
Might be a bit tricky to color match, but that's not really a big deal.
In reply to Recon1342 :
Yeah, it's not terrible. I would have preferred a little brighter white but I think it'll be just fine.
I started sanding some of the orange peel and drips out of it and it was blowing through, it didn't go on very thick. I'm calling it good enough.
Lace makes my plums tingle.
I think the cream color will actually work better with it.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
I think so too. Maybe?
Pellet stove is on making garage really warm 
Clear STINKS compared to the epoxy.
Enough pearl?
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Too much to type off my phone.....
Masked off the edge profile, props to the guys who can freehand corners!
Laid on the lace, used magnets and tape to hold it tight ish.
Two coats of clear with the red pearl sprayed through it.
Peeling the lace was tricky, I dont have 4 arms.... But it came off pretty well. Was hard to time with how wet/dry you want the paint vs getting the lace off.
Two coats of clear over that.
The lace left a lot of texture, I probably should have done a couple more coats of clear so I had an easier option to wet sand it.
Overall the clear laid down GREAT, I was a little worried after the issues I had with the epoxy, but I sprayed it on and turned the fan off when the overspray was gone and it just flattened itself out. Except the lace areas, it looks like massive porange peel there 
Overall pretty happy with the clear, my tape from the lace masking left a line at its back edge, but oh well. I could see it until I put the clear on. Window frames should get hit today. I have 7 days from time the epoxy goes on to get clear on it. They need a bit of run sanding....
Also I have a feeling that you can sand your clear once it fully cures with 800 grit and lay another couple of coats down to give enough to wet sand and buff if you want to
It is an odd phenomenon that DIY painters will spend more time pointing out flaws to their friends than they spent actually painting the project!
A month or two into driving, nobody will notice or care.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
I am not sure I want to at this point.... Ill get the rest done first. Wet sanding sounds terrible right now.
In reply to NOHOME :
Yep, its a 20ft'er. I want to drive it now. Trying to find windshield.....
I was sanding runs out, but they were kind of changing color. So I left a lot....
Pellet stove works. It's hot AF in here.
Nice work. Looks great. Stop beating yourself up! This is tig Ole pink bitties!
Window frames are cleared. I got a lot of runs on the drivers side. But meh! I can sand them later as desired.
Cream is almost green as it's curing....
If you must sand out some runs, I can vouch for this method.
In reply to NOHOME :
Thats pretty slick! Just use spot putty or is it something else?
berkeley!!!! Jack barely fits under the crossmember aired up. I thought the wheels were rolling funny..... Well it slipped off. Now I need a tie rod and oil pan. berkeley berkeley berkeley berkeley berkeley!
Well, crap.
oof. Do not let this stop you though! You're so cloooooose!
In reply to java230 :
ts the same putty you would use to mop up the details before the sealer coat. It keep your paper on a parallel plane to the desired surface while sanding out the run and you can wipe any remains off with a wipe of lacquer thinner if need be.
So I am thinking.... I think if I can get a bolt that matches the drain plug, and make a slide hammer attachment I MIGHT be able to get it flat enough to seal. Or ill rip the threads out of the pan.....
As Nocones once said in another thread, you can't break anything more than it's already broken... If replacement is the only other option, it's definitely worth at least attempting it.
If my options involved not removing the pan and replacing, I would tack weld a sheet metal strip (or strips) along the crease. The strip of metal would have some threaded rods welded to them. I would then make a U shaped puller frame and pull the crease out of the pan by tightening the bolts. This gives you better control of the pull compared to the brute force of a slide hammer. U can weld the bolts directly to the pan, but I l find it easier to make the sheet-metal interface for better load distribution along the damaged area rather than a point source from a bolt. I use this method to pull body panel dents.
That leaves you with a tear in the pan I believe? That I would address by draining all the oil and then flooding half a can of brake clean in there to clean the back side. Force brake clean up the crack and anything else you can think of to get the backside reasonably clean. Then, after flooding the engine with CO2 from the MIG, so nothing makes a loud noise, would try to tack up the crack.
In reply to NOHOME :
I need pictures of this sheet metal bolt Bridge apparatus that you use to pull dents. It sounds like something I need in my life
You'll need to log in to post.
