wvumtnbkr said:Ugh. That was a thing on most of the 2nd gen rx7s I messed with.
Exactly why I thought of it.
Does this car have an immobilizer in it? The dealer hacked one into my Forester as an add on, and sometimes I hit the little dongle with my knee, knock it loose and then and it won't start.
Michael, like 93gsxturbo asked in the other thread you posted, do you have spark and fuel? Start at the basics and work out from there.
If it has an immobilizer I don't know where. Not seeing any evidence of one and all the work that I've done. I need to figure out how to check for spark on a coil unplug ignition. Google is not helping me.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Disconnect injector harness, pull plug and coil, set on frame and have cohort crank engine?
Can you get an intermediary test-harness between one of the harness plugs and the coil and measure voltage spikes?
Edit: this looks interesting, and should be something easily fabricobbled together. Plug the wires into the plugs, ground the body, crank and see the sparks?
Or something like this (there's a coil on plug version) - https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20610-Inline-Spark-Tester/dp/B09NMHFGXD/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3F5U2I8LVYG9U&keywords=spark%2Bchecker&qid=1706552667&sprefix=spark%2Bchecker%2Caps%2C102&sr=8-5&th=1
In reply to adam525i :
I have one of those. Honestly didn't think that would work for oil on plug. I'll try that. Easy button.
Dusterbd13-michael said:In reply to adam525i :
I have one of those. Honestly didn't think that would work for oil on plug. I'll try that. Easy button.
Must be a Subaru thing.
akylekoz said:Dusterbd13-michael said:In reply to adam525i :
I have one of those. Honestly didn't think that would work for oil on plug. I'll try that. Easy button.
Must be a Subaru thing.
Lol. Fat fingers.
So, ive confirmed spark exists. Im pretty sure its timed right. I don't think it has fuel....
Please join in on the breakout thread here.
Frustrating following this on 2 topics but not as much frustration as you currently have. But I also have a baja turbo so it is relevant. If you have spark you gotta have timing, not adjustable or possible to have out of phase by 180. So fuel looks like the winner. CAREFULLY pull a hose and see if there is pressure. The check for constant voltage and ground cycling. Hope this works, there are many other things that may go wrong once it is running.
In reply to porschenut :
Kind of why I created the breakout topic was to get more eyes on it and consolidate everything into one place. That way it got less frustrating and confusing.
The really frustrating thing is that it was running before I went to do deferred maintenance. And I fixed it until it was broke.
These are all thinking out loud responses-good chance you've already done most of them or they already have been suggested.
So whats the fuel pump trigger cycle on these? Prime with the key and then on with MAF signal? If so I would think the prime with key would get you enough to at least start then die. Have you tried cycling the key on and off a bunch of times to make sure you overcome any potential air in the lines? After that I guess its pull a fuel line in the engine bay and see if you have pressure there. If not-why? If yes- it would be down to why is the car not triggering the injectors?
Random questions:
-What did you unplug or unbolt? Is it all plugged back in?
-Did you check all of your fuses?
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Try the fuel thing next. First time I gave up and left the motor with a shop they advised a new wiring harness for the engine. Said the original ones are pretty crusty by now and mine was giving intermittent opens when connectors were wiggled. Sort of thing that might make me crazy in the future.
I will definitely start poking at the harness tonight. Surprisingly harnesses are still available from Subaru though!
If it's all injectors maybe it's a common ground? In the contemporary Outbacks there is one big one on the trans, one on the driver's head, another on the passenger head, and one I always forget across the pitch mount.
Another thing that's easy to accidentally swap is the pressure and return sides of the fuel lines to the manifold, so double check those.
Hoping for the best, with all those vacuum leaks fixed, it should run great!
In reply to rallyxPOS13 :
Injectors are grounded at the ECU as they fire, so in this case it would be a common +12V to the injectors.
There are wiring diagrams for the entire car in the link I posted in the other thread.
So, im going to keep the diagnostic discussion going on the main forum post i linked i value y'all and your input, and would love to have you join in over there if you'd be willing.
But it runs beautifully on ether.
found this wire pulled out of a plug in between the battery and the washer Reservoir. Got it kind of sort of crammed back in with needlenose pliers and it fired right up. Don't know exactly what it goes to or why it popped out of the big connector it was a part of but it runs again. Thank you everybody.
Always good to find a smoking gun, especially before throwing parts at a problem!
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
That's a lot of PSI's! 
In reply to MrJoshua :
Yeah...
Pretty sure it's been rebuilt and has some sort of high volume oil pump in it. Only reason i can think of for the heads to be that clean, it to hold smoke test pressure that well, and the insane oil pressure on 5w30
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Is that at idle or above? The 34 year old 350 in my boat runs 60 psi at 3000 RPM with 850 hours on the meter so maybe yours is normal? Everything else I have that bothers with an oil pressure gauge just has hash marks so tough to say.
So, you still tinkering, or have you hooned it around yet?
Mr_Asa said:So, you still tinkering, or have you hooned it around yet?
That's why I love you.
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